SOUTHERN BAHIA

TThe southern part of Bahia is an interesting mixture of modern and traditional influences. You’ll find many of the things that the Bahian coast is famous for: Bahianas in traditional white hoop dresses serving regional foods in the praças of the small villages, 17th-century religious architecture from Brazil’s colonial period, beautiful sandy beaches lined with palm trees, and various islands and offshore reefs in which to swim and snorkel (or scuba dive). The people here in Southern Bahia are laid-back and relaxed. The rest of Brazil pokes fun at the slow-moving Bahianos, swinging in their hammocks and waiting for the sun to pass overhead. But everybody wants a little part of it. Who wouldn’t?

But Southern Bahia has a more modern side, too—particularly in the city of Porto Seguro. There, you’ll find a very urban atmosphere with a festive beach experience unlike any other in the world. The main attractions are the three huge structures on the beaches of the northern coastline. The structures, called super barracas, are enormous two- or three-story beach bars, each with three or four outdoor stages presenting non-stop music and dance. For sure, the sand and surf in Porto Seguro is secondary to the festivities at the super barracas.

South of Porto Seguro, the climate changes at the villages of Arraial d’Ajuda and Trancoso. There, you find a smaller, more charming atmosphere with small roads leading past the many quaint pousadas, shops, and restaurants. The beaches, too, are quainter, due to their smaller and more personalized beach kiosks. Naturally, you pay a bit more for the charm and quality of options that these towns have to offer, but most international visitors prefer the village atmosphere.

Finally, in the more distant south are small fishing villages and experiences that bring you closer to the marine world. The more elaborate excursions in these areas will give you something to remember for a lifetime—tropical islands, deserted beaches, whales splashing in the ocean, and kilometers of palm trees lining the coast.