RECIFE AND OLINDA

Recife and Olinda have changed a lot over the years. During the first half of the 20th century, when Brazil was enjoying a sort of cultural renaissance (centered mostly in Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo), Recife became known as the Copacabana of the northeast, mostly due to the Praia Boa Viagem. In fact, Boa Viagem was the only real attraction in town; Olinda and the old city center were in a bad state of disrepair. But in the 1980s, the local government began a series of restorations and today Old Recife is a colorful and pristine flash of colonial Brazil. There you can see architecture from the early days of the colonization, such as the complex of buildings along Rua Bom Jesus. The great government buildings around Praça da República almost take you back in time, and the waterfront complex from the 1700s along Rua da Aurora is a work of art.

Olinda’s restoration lagged behind somewhat, even after being named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1982. But one by one, the historical churches and monuments of the town are being restored and you can even see the restoration laboratory in action in the Amparo church. The restored main altar in the Mosteiro São Bento is one of the finest specimens of baroque sacred art in the world.

Recife borrows its name from the large arrecifes (rocky reefs) that sit some 200 meters from shore and block the incoming tide, making the surf calm and tranquil. The natural formation of these reefs creates something of a bay where the city’s two principal rivers empty into the ocean. There, the reefs almost totally block access between the mouths of the rivers and the ocean, making the area a perfect shipping port. Inside the reefs are two islands where Old Recife and the new downtown shake hands. To the north is the Island of Itamaraca, home to one of the offices of the Peixe Boi Eco-Center, a habitat and preservation center for the sea cows of Brazil’s northern coastline (a salt-water cousin to the manatee). This is also a great area for scuba diving. The southern coast is full of picture-perfect beaches, some deserted and some semi-urbanized. The water is extremely warm and clear and snorkeling excursions are a highlight at many of the beaches. One of the must-sees of the area is Porto de Galinhas, a quaint coastal village along the southern shores of Recife that has one of the best reef areas for diving and snorkeling in the country, plus sea-horse preservation areas and plenty of radical water sports and inviting beach kiosks.

One of Brazil’s largest and most turbulent cities, Recife suffers from a few modern problems. Pollution of the area’s rivers and canals makes it difficult to get away from the stench. These conditions make Praia de Boa Viagem a great place for a half-day walk along the boardwalk and nothing more. Keep in mind that weekends can get crowded with locals. Within the city you have traffic, noise, and crime.

This mix of attractions and repulsions makes Recife a challenging destination for foreigners. But with a little planning and some good background information, it’s possible to have a smooth trip through the area with a minimum of inconveniences and a maximum of pleasures.