CENTRAL MINAS

Although the entire state of Minas Gerais offers attractions, it’s the central area that really holds the most for travelers—with its numerous historical sites, beautiful landscapes, legends, and mysteries from a time when what happened in Brazil changed the entire world forever. The amount of gold and jewels extracted from Minas Gerais from 1700–1770 was nothing short of staggering and the gold rush (which is called the Gold Cycle in Brazil) left behind dozens of churches and architectural monuments. Nonetheless, the most significant attractions of this region are not the churches and museums, but the old colonial towns in which they reside. While Ouro Preto, for example, has many important historical monuments, it’s really the town itself that captures the imagination and holds a kind of mystery and poetry in its streets and hillsides. The sleepy town of Tiradentes is home to the most spectacular church in the entire region, the Igreja do Matriz do Santo Antônio (the second most gold-laden church in Brazil), but the magic of your voyage to Tiradentes begins when you settle into the town itself, feel its quiet repose, and experience the hospitality of the locals and their passion for the place.

Of course, there is history at every turn, mostly from the years leading up to and during the gold boom. When you realize that this area produced in the 18th century as much as the rest of the world produced from the 16th to the end of the 19th centuries combined, you begin to imagine what frenzy must have taken place here. Now add the political (and spiritual) influences of the Catholic church, European colonization, and the realities of the slave trade and you have a most fascinating trip ahead of you.

Naturally, you should check out some of the churches, museums, and historical sites of the area. But be warned: There are dozens of them and after awhile they all begin to look the same, interesting as they may be. So this chapter will steer you to the most important and interesting of the bunch, while mentioning some of the side options that you might find worth exploring. Aside from these historical sites, you may want to see some of the natural wonders, including some of the exhilarating waterfalls and mountain vistas. Also, take some time to visit the local artisans, whose crafts can be found in shops throughout the region and in street fairs and festivals—from the stone pots and pans in Cachoeira do Campo just outside of Ouro Preto to the pewter factories in São João del Rei.