SNORKELING AND FLOTATION

If you’ve already been to the Parrachos in Natal or the great underwater pools in Porto de Galinhas on the north coast of Brazil, you might think that floating down a fresh-water river with a mask and snorkel could not possibly compare. You’ll be surprised to discover that the flotation adventures in Bonito are some of the most compelling and exciting snorkeling excursions in the country. They generally begin with a short hike through the brush. You then enter a fresh-water pool, filled with an incredible variety of plants and fish, then float with the mild current along a river, viewing the fish swimming with you along the way. The water is amazingly clear (said to be some of the clearest in the world) and the wet suit helps keep you warm along the way. There are several flotation sites in the area and they all provide equipment and facilities for lunch and relaxation. One of the best is the Reserva Ecológica Baía Bonita (7 km from Bonito, tel. 67/255-1193, www.baiabonita.com.br), which has one of the most pristine aquariums in the area, with about 30 different types of fish. You begin in the aquarium, then commence floating downstream for about 1.5 kilometers. The water here is not as cold as other rivers and they have some excellent facilities, including a restaurant, outdoor showers, warm swimming pool, and relaxation cabana. The food is excellent and the suspended trail going out to the aquarium is an adventure in itself.

Another contender in the floatation game is the Recanto Ecológico Rio da Prata (54 km from Bonito, www.riodaprata.com.br). You begin with a light hike into the forest (40 minutes) where you can see monkeys and birds of the Pantanal. You come to a great natural pool of water, filled with fish and plant life and float down the current with your mask and snorkel, face down to watch the underwater world. The floatation lasts about an hour and 20 minutes. Afterward, there is lunch with regional cuisine and a relaxation area. They have an optional horseback excursion from there. The cost is R$90 with an additional R$15 for lunch. You can also check into the Rio Sucuri (18 km from Bonito, tel. 67/255-1736, www.riosucuri.com.br), which is very much like the former site, with a floatation of about 1.5 kilometers in relatively cold but incredibly clear water. They have an abundant lunch with fish, chicken, and regional dishes. Optional horseback excursions or bike excursions are also available. It’s R$100 including lunch and all equipment. Bonito Aventura (6 km from Bonito, tel. 67/382-2984, www.bonitoaventura.com.br) is the longest and deepest flotation, spanning 2.2 kilometers and up to five meters in depth at times. You pass through some mild cascades (an extra thrill) along the way. The adventure takes only three hours and there is no lunch included. The price is R$40. Finally, Eno Bókoti (32 km from Bonito, tel. 67/255-4023, www.enobokoti.com.br) is a full-day event, which includes a two-kilometer hike to a great waterfall and natural pool. There are also pools with swings and diving decks and you can take the optional flotation for 500 meters. Lunch is included for R$50, with an extra R$20 for the flotation.