Mercado Ver-o-Peso

The most striking and impressive structure in Old Belém is easily the Mercado Ver-o-Peso (open 9 a.m.–6 p.m. daily), sitting near the docks on the old waterfront. Originally created in 1688 by mandate of the Portuguese Crown, the Mercado was intended to help control the imports and exports of the city for purposes of collecting taxes. The name Ver-o-Peso comes from its original function of stopping ships along the Amazon River (generally on their way to or from Manaus) to ver (look) and pesar (weigh) their cargo. Currently used as the city’s principal meat market, the original building was renovated in 1908 and given some contemporary touches, including its decorative staircase. An adjacent building, known as the Mercado de Ferro, or Iron Market, was constructed in 1901 from European materials. The Mercado and adjoining buildings are some of the oldest structures in the city and reveal the various stages of the city’s history: colonial architecture in baroque style, neoclassic structures from the 19th century, and mixed nouveaux architecture from the early 20th century, remembrances of the Ciclo de Borracha, or rubber boom. A look at the outsides of these buildings is a lesson in the history of Belém and commerce in the Amazon region. At one end of the Mercado is the Praça do Relógio (Clock Square), with it’s European timepiece and structure. Just outside the market along the waterfront are some great places to sit and relax with a cold drink and a snack.

Inside the Mercado structure is a mind-boggling assortment of meat, fish, fruit, arts, crafts, herbs, and furnishings. Almost all of the merchandise in the Mercado is from the local area and often brought in from local aboriginal groups. Walking through the Ver-o-Peso provides an authentic view of the local culture. And you may find a cure for what ails you; one of the highlights of the Mercado is the assortment of alternative healers and herb vendors with their collections of leaves, twigs, bark, and seeds from all sorts of Amazonian plants—most containing medicinal qualities. If you’re not quite ready to try the herbal concoctions, hike over to the fruit market, where you’ll find an enormous variety of fruit from the Amazon region, including great quantities of acaí and guaraná, two of the most popular fruits in the region. Sampling the different flavors is one of the great pleasures of a trip to Belém, especially in the homemade ice creams made from these local fruits.

Note: The Ver-o-Peso market can be a moderately risky place to walk around. Pay careful attention to your belongings and don’t bring anything that is not absolutely necessary. If you have a backpack, don’t wear it on your back, but in front of you. Your wallet should be in a front pocket with your hand inside—or in a buttoned or zipped pocket. Even better, avoid using a wallet and just bring some cash and a copy of your passport for ID. Purses and cameras should be worn diagonally across your chest. Don’t be fooled by misdirection schemes that take your attention away from your belongings, and don’t walk into areas where you are the only person. If you wish, you can hire a guide to take you through the market and watch out for you along the way. You can find guides in the dock area. Look for those registered with EMBRATUR or the city agency of Belemtur.