MORRO DE SÃO PAULO BEACHES

The three main beaches of Morro de São Paulo are called Primeira, Segunda, and Terceira Praias. Just about everything on the island is located by the name of the beach (or village) in which it’s found (“My hotel is on Terceira Praia,” or “I’ll meet you at Primeira Praia and we’ll head into the village for dinner”). You can walk from the beginning of Primeira Praia to the end of Terceira Praia in about 45 minutes. Each of the three beaches has a unique personality. Primeira Praia is the smallest and, in many ways, the most quaint. It is especially interesting during low tide, when you can walk back and forth between Primeira and Segunda Praias (at high tide, the area between these two beaches is used for beginning scuba diving lessons) and even from Primeira Praia all the way around the point to the bottom of the fort. Just be sure not to get caught there after the tide comes in. There are a number of boats docked in the waters of Primeira Praia and many of these belong to the tour agencies in the village. There is a very quaint beach kiosk at Primeira Praia with a tranquil view of the ocean. Above the beach, a trail leads past some pousadas and casual eateries. Here, you’ll also find scuba diving clubs and tour agencies.

Segunda Praia is the most active of the three. Here, you’ll find the best swimming conditions (calm waters blocked by offshore reefs and no boats) and people playing sports on the sand (which can actually be somewhat invasive and a hassle to avoid). All along the inside of the beach are shops, bars, restaurants, and pousadas. These bars provide the late, late night party action for the island, which is why the pousadas here are not necessarily the best options on the island. They are, ironically, some of the more expensive places. At night, a slew of temporary barracas appears in front of the bars, offering all sorts of tropical fruit drinks (with or without alcohol). The far tip of the beach is a tree-covered area called the Ilha de Saudade, which is not really an island at all. There is an excellent place for snorkeling just off the point in the direction of Segunda Praia.

On the way to Terceira Praia, you’ll pass some small beach kiosks that sell drinks and appetizers. Then, as you enter the third beach, you’ll notice that it has a completely different feel. First of all, the beach is lined with pousadas. Some are excellent economical options for being right on the beach. There are also a number of places to sit and have a drink while looking out on the water, which is full of boats here. The swimming here is not bad if you don’t go out to where the boats are.