Mercado Modelo

At the bottom of the Lacerda Elevator and across the highway sits the Mercado Modelo (Praça Visconde de Cayru, tel. 71/3241-0242, 9 a.m.–7 p.m. Mon.–Sat., 9 a.m.–2 p.m. on Sun.), built in 1861 and originally used as the customs house for shipments coming into port. In 1971, the building was converted into the present-day Mercado only to be destroyed by fire in 1984. Quickly rebuilt, the Mercado functions again as a center of Bahian arts and crafts with more than 250 stands. Here you’ll find Capoeira pants, lacework, jewelry, wood carvings, Bahian traditional clothing, trinkets, musical instruments, souvenirs, and much more. Prices here are about the same as in Pelourinho, but don’t be afraid to bargain, especially for jewelry and handcrafts. In the back is a covered patio area, where you can relax and have lunch or a cold drink. In the praça in front of the market, you’ll find more arts and crafts stands with a host of hippie-style items and occasional Capoeira demonstrations and live music. There is a Banco do Brasil ATM machine here that has the Plus and Cirrus systems. You’ll see armed police hanging around the praça during the day, but don’t be caught here at night—or anywhere around the Cidade Baixa for that matter.