Old Recife

Recife’s Portuguese merchants and landowners (known as the mascotes) set up their businesses and meeting places in the shadow of Olinda on the Ilha do Recife, now known as Old Recife. When the Dutch planted their own seeds in Recife, leaving Olinda in ashes, Old Recife became the strategic port of the area and left Olinda far behind. The activity grew and the island soon became the location of important government offices for the region. Inhabitants erected their shops, theaters, and churches (and a synagogue) along the streets and praças. By the 1800s, Old Recife extended well beyond the small Ilha do Recife and onto the adjacent Ilha Joana Bezerra, known today as the Santo Antônio neighborhood. Today, these two islands, together with the Boa Vista neighborhood on the mainland nearby, are home to the city’s most important historical buildings, praças, and architectural monuments. These are scattered among the modern high-rise buildings, city streets, and traffic. Several bridges connect these islands to one another and to the mainland on either side.

It’s possible to create a walking tour of Old Recife and even include a great deal of the Santo Antônio and Boa Vista areas. If you prefer the packaged city tour, which visits the major sights in about 3–4 hours, you can arrange it at practically any hotel, even if you’re not staying there. It leaves in the morning and again at around 2 p.m. for about R$35 per person.

The Marco Zero Area

Start at the Praça Rio Branco at the end of Avenida Rio Branco; this is a point known as Marco Zero, the point on the map from which all distances in the area are measured. It was also the official point where Old Recife was founded and where the original pier was located, controlling traffic in and out of the bay. Today, you can take a boat from this point across to the Parque de Esculturas Francisco Brennand, a permanent exhibit of sculptures installed on the reefs in front of the Island of Recife. It’s actually pretty interesting to take a boat across the water to see a sculpture garden on a narrow reef. Where else will you get that experience? A bit farther north on Avenida Alfredo Lisboa is the Torre Malakoff and observatory (Rua do Observatório, 10 a.m.–8 p.m. Tues.–Fri. and 2–7 p.m. weekends). Built in 1855, it stands as the first stargazing tower in the Americas with a small dome that once opened for gazing activities. Today, you can climb to the top terrace to view the city with the telescopes provided. Entrance is free.

Rua Bom Jesus (Rua dos Judeus)

Parallel to Avenida Alfredo Lisboa is Rua Bom Jesus, where you’ll see numerous old buildings that have survived since the 17th century. Beginning with the Dutch occupation, this street was the commercial center of Old Recife and was known as Rua dos Judeus due to the numerous Jewish-owned establishments here. This was also the location of the first Jewish synagogue in the Americas, Kahal Zur Israel Synagogue (Rua do Bom Jesus 197, tel. 81/3224-2128, 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon.–Fri., 3 p.m.–7 p.m. on weekends, R$2). Destroyed in the early 1900s, the site is now a cultural center with information about the Jewish participation in the city’s history and some interesting ruins. It’s said that from this nucleus, some 23 Jews left to create the first synagogue in New York City.

Today, Rua Bom Jesus is loaded with bars and restaurants that come alive at night with outdoor parties that extend into the side streets with dancing and live music. On Sundays, the street hosts an arts and crafts fair, along with more live music and outdoor festivities.

Forte do Brum

On the northern end of the island is the Forte do Brum, built in 1629 out of stones from the local reefs. Its purpose was to fend off attacks from the Dutch who overtook the fort only two years later. Inside is the Museu Militar (9 a.m.–4 p.m. Tues.–Fri. and 2 p.m.–4 p.m. weekends) with artifacts from the Brazilian participation in WWII, interesting perhaps to WWII history buffs.

The Apolo Area

Coming back south along Avenida Cais do Apolo, you’ll pass the Catedral da Madre de Deus on the right (Av. Cais de Apolo, 8 a.m.–noon and 2–4 p.m. Tues.–Fri., 8–10 a.m. Sat., and 9–11 a.m. Sun.). Turn down to Rua do Apolo to check out the Teatro Apolo (Av. Cais de Apolo, tel. 81/3224-1119, 8 a.m.–6 p.m. Mon.–Fri.) before making your way back to Avenida Rio Branco and the Buarque de Macedo Bridge. Here you can cross over to the Santo Antônio area to continue your tour.