MARACAÍPE BEACH

At high tide, ocean water spills into the Maracaípe River basin and causes a sort of high river tide as well. Called the Pontal de Maracaípe, the area is a kind of saltwater marshland. Clusters of trees and shrubs that grow in these waters form islands where crabs and sea horses flourish among the tall root systems. Where the river passes so close to the ocean that only a sandbar separates the two, jangadas (flat boats) take small groups up the river to search for sea horses and relax at the floating bars that anchor themselves around the islands. They charge R$6 per person for about two hours. The water is warm, clear, and salobra (semi-salty); the bottom is pure sand; and there are no large fish in the waters. Still, snorkeling up in the dark, swampy root systems can be creepy for some. To maintain the sanctity of this sea horse habitat, the jangadas have no motors. Instead, they are propelled by pushing off the bottom of the river with long sticks. The only other vehicles allowed up the river are kayaks, which are available for three-hour river excursions—four people at a time for R$12 per person. For information, call tel. 81/3552-1111. A final option at the sandbar of Maracaípe Point is to sip a cold beverage while sitting at a table, waist-deep in the river. It’s extremely refreshing and if you stick around until sunset, you’re in for an amazing show.

The Maracaípe River basin is actually at the far end of Maracaípe Beach. Along the beach itself are numerous kiosks, beach bars, and shops. You’ll find convenient outdoor showers and restaurants for lunch. The last bar before the river has excellent spicy fish soup. There is a small village toward the south end—the Vila de Todos os Santos—which has arts and crafts stands during the summer months and on weekends. The surf along this beach is pretty rough and not recommended for swimming. Water sports, on the other hand, are very popular here, particularly surfing and kite surfing. In fact, Maracaípe Beach has been the location of several international surfing events.

If you like to walk along the beach, you can walk all the way from Ipojuca Beach at the village of Galinhas to Maracaípe. It’s about six kilometers and takes around two hours. Maracaípe and the Pontal can easily occupy an entire day in Porto de Galinhas. For that reason, the half-day buggy trips that include Maracaípe will probably leave you wanting more.