Jeriquaquara

When Jeriquaquara (or Jeri to the locals) obtained electricity only a few short years ago, everyone thought it was on its way out. Modern civilization had arrived to destroy the unspoiled feeling of the place. Surprisingly, Jeriquaquara remains a tropical paradise on the upper coast of Brazil—maybe just the paradise you’ve been looking for. But paradise is not easily attained. Some 320 kilometers (six hours by bus) from Fortaleza, Jeri is too far for a simple day trip. In fact, most visitors to Fortaleza never make it to Jeriquaquara, as it requires an overnight stay (although the more savvy visitors go directly to Jeri and stay there the entire time). To really do it right, you should hang out for at least two days. Besides some of the most beautiful beaches surrounded by fluffy sand dunes and palm trees, you’ll find some of the friendliest, most laid-back people in the world. Although Jeri has several charming pousadas and a few sandy streets lined with bars and restaurants, it still has a very undiscovered feel to it. Perhaps because signs of progress have not spoiled the place. Electric lines, for example, were installed underground, making it possible to see the stars at night—an obligatory part of any tropical paradise.

Accommodations in Jeriquaquara are not outrageously expensive, nor is the food. What you’ll find a bit excessive are the prices for transportation to the major beaches and lakes. Buggies, which are about the only way to get around, cost R$120–180 for standard trips that last about a half-day. It’s best if you can put together a group of four people to split the cost and also dictate what you want to see and for how long. Otherwise, the buggy drivers will take you on their programmed trips.

Buggy Excursions

After hiking up one of the tall dunes to get a view of the coastline, the best way to get to know Jeri is by dune buggy. Not to be missed is the ride out to Lagoa Paraíso and Lagoa Azul, two fresh-water lakes in the middle of the dunes, formed by rainwater. Paraíso is clear and blue and fantastic for swimming, with white sand and charming beach bungalows selling refreshments—it’s even better than the ocean. The lake is surrounded by coconut trees and small boats pass along the surface. Motorized water vehicles are prohibited, so it remains peaceful. Lagoa Azul is equally clear and beautiful and you can go out to a sandbar in the middle, where there is a restaurant with tables and chairs partially in the water. You can rent a mask and snorkel and check out the underwater world. Buggy rides to Lagoa Paraíso and Lagoa Azul cost around R$120 for four people. Again, if you are in a group, you can dictate where you’d like to go and how long you’d like to stay.

Several of the Jeri beaches are worth exploring and you can walk to one of the most popular, called Pedra Furada. A canoe trip costs around R$15 and renting a ski for surfing the dunes is about R$5 per hour. Wind-surfing equipment is also rather expensive at about R$150 per day, but Jeri is an excellent place for practicing the sport—given the constant winds. In the late afternoon, go up the tall dune called Duna do Por do Sol to look out over the beach and the boats coming in from their day of fishing. The sunset from there is spectacular. And it’s still free.