THE NORTHERN CAYES

Pronounced “keez,” these dozens of islands consist of everything from the most deserted spit of sand and palms to Ambergris Caye, the original Isla Bonita and home of San Pedro, the most developed and swankiest side of Belize tourism. San Pedro Town and the reef-facing beach resorts that stretch north and south from it are still wonderfully small-scale compared to nearby Mexican and Caribbean destinations, and comprise the most luxurious, expensive, and well-known part of the country. In fact, Ambergris is the only part of Belize that some tourists ever see, spending their entire vacation in San Pedro, so enraptured are they by the chic restaurants, beach bars, shopping, and—oh yeah, world-class diving and snorkeling just minutes offshore. Then there’s the more budget-oriented Caye Caulker, just down the reef, with its own rasta-tinted vibe and equally incredible activities. There are also far-off Turneffe Island and Lighthouse Reef Atolls, geographical phenomena that feature spectacular wall diving and Jacques Cousteau’s old favorite, the Blue Hole; these atolls are accessed by day trips from Belize City, Ambergris, or Caulker, or from a handful of upscale, on-site lodges.

Hol Chan Marine Reserve: Belize’s famous Barrier Reef, less than a mile offshore from both Caye Caulker and Ambergris, is marked by this famous “cut,” or break, in the reef where the mixing water from the open ocean (and bait thrown in from tour boats) ensures plenty of wildlife. Other snorkel and dive sites include nearby Shark Ray Alley and Mexico Rocks. (read more)

Swallow Caye Wildlife Sanctuary: One of many ocean-bound excursions available from Belize’s Northern Cayes, this protected area is visited by a number of guides who offer manatee- and bird-watching tours. (read more)

The Elbow: The steep drop-off and clashing currents at Turneffe Island’s southern tip is a unique dive site because of the deep-water fish that frequent the area, as well as a thriving population of interesting sponges. (read more)

Half Moon Caye Wall: This beautiful crescent-shaped island is at the southeast corner of Lighthouse Reef Atoll. The wall just offshore is one of Belize’s most fascinating sites, with numerous tunnels and and canyons in the reef crest, all swimming with wildlife. (read more)

Spanish Lookout Caye: Lose the crowds at this 187-acre mangrove island, located at the southern tip of The Drowned Cayes, just east of Belize City. Spanish Lookout is part of a unique tropical ecosystem that includes seagrass beds, mangrove islands, and coral reefs, and boasts excellent snorkeling and diving. (read more)