Buenos Aires is the starting point—and the flashpoint—of Argentine history. Time has transformed, but not erased, the colonial quarters of Monserrat and San Telmo, but it’s the epic of independence, the era of immigration and excess, the populism of the Peróns, and the ruthless 1976–83 dictatorship that helped create contemporary Argentina. Just to sample the historical sites and museums touching on these topics would require three days of intensive sightseeing, and at least a week would be desirable. Add a few days on the nearby pampas to appreciate the gaucho tradition.

What is now northwestern Argentina was only an outlier of the fabled Inka empire, but there are plenty of pre-Inka archaeological sites in Jujuy’s Quebrada de Humahuaca, the highlands of Salta and other Andean provinces, and Córdoba and its Sierras. In colonial times, this was the country’s most densely populated region, with chapels and churches to prove it, and many of these monuments played key roles in the independence campaign and its intrigues. Serious students of history will spend no less than a week here, and preferably at least two.

History plays second fiddle to nature in Mesopotamia, at least at Iguazú, but the remains of the Jesuit missions tell an epic story in their own right. In early independence times, this was the land of provincial warlords like Justo José de Urquiza, who built an extravagant palace in Entre Ríos. Figure on a couple of days to appreciate the missions, before or after seeing Iguazú. Some of the best-preserved ruins are in Paraguay, just over the border from the Argentine city of Posadas.

Earthquakes have leveled many Cuyo landmarks, but the legacy of José de San Martín, who crossed the cordillera to Chile with his Army of the Andes, endures at various sites in Mendoza, San Juan, and the Andean backcountry. The history of mountaineering, of course, is a topic in its own right in the highest peaks of the Andes.

In European terms, most of Patagonia’s history is relatively recent, but Magellan’s epic voyage of 1520 passed the winter at Puerto San Julián on the South Atlantic coast, and Darwin visited many locations from Buenos Aires Province to the tip of Tierra del Fuego—an itinerary British author Toby Green tried to trace on horseback in Saddled with Darwin. This, though, is for visitors with enough time and patience to view the landscape with 16th- or 19th-century eyes.

Until the late 19th century, Patagonia was Mapuche territory, and indigenous people are still a palpable presence in parts of Neuquén, Río Negro, and Chubut. Easily reached from Bariloche, northern Chubut was the South American hideout of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid; many pilgrims pay homage to their crumbling cabin near Cholila.

Tierra del Fuego and Chilean Patagonia have a common history tied to the early European explorations, the travels of Darwin and Fitzroy and subsequent missionization, the California Gold Rush, and the opulence of immigrant wool barons. Some of the continent’s greatest fortunes started here, and their founders left monuments to themselves around the Chilean city of Punta Arenas and scattered across the steppes. Spending several days or a week here would be easy.

Day 1
Arrive at Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini (Ezeiza) and transfer to a Buenos Aires hotel. Afternoon sightseeing at main historic sites like the Plaza de Mayo, the Casa Rosada presidential palace, and the Congreso Nacional.

Day 2
Full-day city tour, including the colonial neighborhood of San Telmo, the colorful immigrant barrio of La Boca, and upscale Retiro.

Day 3
Early morning flight to Puerto Iguazú, with the afternoon at the falls; if the timing’s right, take the full-moon tour.

Day 4
Overland to the landmark Jesuit mission at San Ignacio and smaller ruined missions en route, with an overnight at the city of Posadas. From Posadas, time permitting, take an excursion across the Paraguayan border to the well-preserved missions of Trinidad and Jesús.

Day 5
Return flight to Buenos Aires and on to the colonial city of Salta, with the afternoon free to visit the city’s colonial churches, monuments, and museums.

Day 6
Full-day tour of the altiplano high steppe; in the winter dry season, take the “Train to the Clouds.”

Day 7
Excursion to the archaeological sites and colonial monuments of the Quebrada de Humahuaca, a World Heritage Site in Jujuy Province. Stay overnight in Purmamarca or Tilcara.

Day 8
Morning tour to the remote and stunningly scenic Andean village of Iruya, returning to Salta in the afternoon.

Day 9
Departure by rental car for the town of Cafayate via the colorful desert canyon of the Quebrada de Cafayate, with a side trip to the pre-Columbian ruins of Quilmes. Taste Cafayate’s unique white wine, Torrontés, at any of several local bodegas.

Day 10
Return loop to Salta via the scenic Andean village of Cachi and Parque Nacional Los Cardones.

Day 11
Return flight to Buenos Aires, with afternoon visits to the historical cemeteries at Recoleta and Chacarita. In the evening, take in a tango floor show.

Day 12
An overland excursion to the pilgrimage center of Luján, Argentina’s single most important religious site, and the gaucho capital of San Antonio de Areco.

Day 13
Ferry across the River Plate to the World Heritage Site of Colonia, Uruguay.

Day 14
Take the morning and afternoon for exploring Buenos Aires, including Palermo’s José Hernández gaucho museum and Eva Perón museum, before an evening departure.