NORTHERN PATAGONIA

For more than three centuries, northern Patagonia was a zone of conflict where Araucanian (Mapuche) Indians kept both Spanish and Argentine forces and settlers off guard, before finally bowing to Argentine sovereignty in the late 19th century. While marginalized economically, the Mapuche play an increasingly visible role in regional politics through their persistent land claims.

While most of Argentine Patagonia is desert steppe, the densely wooded sector near the Chilean border boasts numerous national parks. Centered around the city of San Carlos de Bariloche, this is the country’s conventional holiday destination, but activities-oriented travel, including hiking, climbing, rafting and kayaking, and fly-fishing, has grown rapidly over the past decade. At select locations, ski resorts take advantage of the heavy winter snowpack.

Volcán Lanín: In the northernmost sector of Argentina’s fabled lake district, this snow-capped peak is one of the region’s most recognizable summits and the centerpiece of Parque Nacional Lanín. (read more)

Parque Nacional Los Arrayanes: Arrayán forests are the highlight of this park on the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi. The upscale town of Villa la Angostura provides easy access. (read more)

Centro Cívico: The buildings around this square in San Carlos de Bariloche represent the best of Argentine Patagonia’s architecture, setting a standard for the entire lake district with their steep roofs and arched recovas. (read more)

Lago Nahuel Huapi: This glacial lake is the centerpiece of Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, one of Argentina’s most-visited national parks. From the alluring lakeshore, the parkland rises to the forests, pinnacles, and icefields of some of the Andes’ most accessible scenery. (read more)

Feria Artesanal: This thrice-weekly market surrounding Plaza Pagano in El Bolsón is the perfect place to find local crafts and sample regional food and drink. (read more)

Cerro Piltriquitrón: This 2,284-meter granite summit rises east of Bolsón, where a clear day reveals snow-covered peaks along the Chilean border. There’s a parking area at 1,200 meters, with a forest of 25 stump sculptures nearby. (read more)

Circuito Lacustre: The most popular excursion in Parque Nacional Los Alerces is this lake circuit, by boat and by foot, starting at Puerto Limonao, on the south end of Lago Futalaufquen, and ending at Puerto Sagrario. (read more)