THE ANDEAN NORTHWEST

In colonial times, the densely populated northwest was the River Plate’s link to the Viceroyalty of Peru and to Spain, and its palpable indigenous and colonial landmarks—set among incomparable mountain and desert scenery—are the region’s strongest assets. Cities like Salta, San Salvador de Jujuy, La Rioja, Catamarca, and Santiago del Estero were thriving when Buenos Aires was a hardship post; not until well after independence did they reverse their orientation toward the Atlantic.

In addition to its historic and scenic appeal, the Northwest can claim a unique, underappreciated status as a wine region. The areas around Cafayate can boast distinctive high-altitude wines, including what most consider to be Argentina’s top Torrontés, but La Rioja’s Chilecito also has notable vineyards and wineries.

Iglesia San Francisco: This 18th-century church with a four-story tower and reddish hue is the most unusual in Salta, northwestern Argentina’s best-kept colonial city. (read more)

Valles Calchaquíes and the Altiplano: West and south of Salta, explore the polychrome Quebrada de Cafayate and its nearby wine country, the vertiginous mountain road to remote Cachi, and the scenic “Train to the Clouds.” (read more)

Quebrada de Humahuaca and Vicinity: The deep canyon’s stunning landscapes, archaeological monuments, and settlements have preserved so much indigenous integrity that the valley received UNESCO World Heritage Site designation in 2003. (read more)

National Parks of the Yungas: In this strip of eastern Andean cloud forest, several national parks display some of Argentina’s greatest biodiversity. Calilegua and El Rey are easier to visit, while access to Baritú is difficult. (read more)

San Miguel de Tucumán: This capital of a poverty-stricken province takes pride in its role as the cradle of Argentine independence. Its historical legacy, represented by several colonial monuments, makes it an interesting stop for history buffs. (read more)

Quilmes: At the south end of the Valles Calchaquíes in Tucumán Province, but also easily reached from Cafayate, these hillside ruins of a pre-Columbian fortress make up what is arguably the country’s most impressive archaeological site. (read more)

Parque Nacional Talampaya: Reminiscent of Utah and Arizona, the thinly settled western desert of La Rioja Province is rich in scenery, fossils, and pre-Columbian rock-art sites. (read more)