Destination content © Wayne Bernhardson, used from Moon Handbooks Argentina, 1st Edition.
Maps © Avalon Publishing Group, Inc.
TANDIL
Surrounded by the rounded slopes of its namesake Sierras, Tandil offers literal relief from the relentlessly flat pampas of southern Buenos Aires Province—even though its granitic summits top out at Cerro Albión, only 502 meters above sea level. Still, its irregular terrain has sufficed to make charmingly cobblestoned Tandil one of southern Buenos Aires Province’s top recreational destinations.
Tandil is also a major pilgrimage site at Easter, when tens of thousands of the faithful converge at cross-topped Monte Calvario, so called for its supposed resemblance to Golgotha. The city is also known for its gaucho souvenirs and for delectable homemade hams, salamis, and cheeses.
History
Placid Tandil has had a remarkably violent past ever since its origins as Fuerte Independencia, a military outpost established by Martín Rodríguez in 1823, in the course of Argentina’s relentless campaign against its indigenous inhabitants. When the dictator Juan Manuel de Rosas assumed power in 1829, the conflict intensified. Between 1820 and 1870, according to one contemporary estimate, the Pampas Indians had rustled 11 million cattle, two million horses, and two million sheep, and had killed 50,000 people and destroyed 3,000 houses.
While the indigenous frontier had largely receded by 1872, violence itself did not vanish. One of the most infamous incidents occurred on New Year’s Day of that year, as the messianic healer Gerónimo de Solané, popularly known as Tata Dios (literally, “God the Father”) or Médico Dios (“God the Doctor”) inspired a brief but bloody reign of throat-slitting terror against foreigners. Some 35 European settlers—British, French, Italian, and Spanish—died at the hands of Solané’s gaucho followers; the only Argentine death was an apparent victim of mistaken identity.
In part, the gauchos were motivated by resentment of their own marginal status, but the influence of landowners and corrupt local officials, in an area where Buenos Aires’s authority was tenuous, likely played a part as well. Solané, though he himself did not participate in the massacres, died unaccountably of gunshot wounds while detained in the Tandil jail.
The Tandil massacres were not unique in their day, but such extreme and seemingly unprovoked violence had international repercussions. The perception grew, particularly among British observers in Buenos Aires and overseas, that Argentina’s federal government could not guarantee the lives and livelihoods of settlers. Immigration declined and foreign investment withdrew, at least temporarily; some historians have argued that this set a pattern of mistrust that continues to the present.
Orientation
Tandil (population 100,869) is 360 kilometers south of Buenos Aires via RN 3 and RN 226, and 160 kilometers northwest of Mar del Plata via RN 226. Plaza Independencia sits precisely in the center of the city’s compact original grid, which is bounded by Avenida España to the north, Avenida Rivadavia to the west, Avenida Santamarina to the east, and Avenida Avellaneda to the south.
Sights
Densely wooded, dotted with neoclassical statuary and fountains, Plaza Independencia occupies two full blocks; an obelisk in its center marks Tandil’s Piedra Fundamental, the city’s founding stone.
On the former site of Fuerte Independencia (which was demolished in 1864), on the south side of the plaza, the Municipalidad de Tandil occupies the former Banco Hipotecario Nacional. Around the corner is the Museo de Bellas Artes (Fine Arts Museum, Chacabuco 367, tel. 02293/432067, 5–8 p.m. daily except Monday).
Across the street from the Municipalidad, the neo-Gothic Templo de la Inmaculada Concepción (1878) includes stones from Fuerte Independencia, but the triple towers are a late (1969) addition. Its campanario (bell tower, 1931) came from Bochum, Germany.
Tandil’s Museo Tradicionalista (4 de Abril 485, tel. 02293/424025, 4–8 p.m. daily) is a classic kitchen-sink museum that includes just about everything under the sun that has anything to do with Tandil—and it looks like they’ve tried to make room for every item they possess. It’s rather like visiting a thrift shop—hundreds of photographs, works by local artists, a replica of a pulpería (rural bar), dozens of horse carriages, and even a 1940s fighter plane, in 17 huge exhibit halls.
Tandil proper is mostly level, but the Sierras start barely six blocks southwest of the plaza in Parque Independencia, whose main entrance is at the corner of Avenida Avellaneda and Rondeau.
To the northwest, at the end of Avenida Monseñor de Andrea, Monte Calvario is the site of Easter ceremonies.
In 1872, the followers of Tata Dios gathered at Cerro La Movediza, about three kilometers northwest of the plaza, where a 300-ton boulder wobbled in the wind for centuries before finally falling four decades later. According to legend, the so-called Piedra Movediza withstood all the efforts of General Rosas’s draft animals to pull it down. Bus No. 503 (blue) goes directly there.
Entertainment
The Teatro Cervantes (Rodríguez 551, tel. 02293/449607) is Tandil’s major performing arts venue and an historical monument—tango legend Carlos Gardel performed five times here, the last time in 1933, only two years before his untimely death.
For movies, try the Cines Plaza (Chacabuco 517, tel. 02293/448600) or the Cinecenter (Panamá 351, tel. 02293/422332).
Tandil enjoys a lively bar scene at places like the stylishly punning Bar Tolomé (Rodríguez and Mitre, tel. 02293/422951), which also has live music; the name derives from its location on the street named for President Bartolomé Mitre. The Golden Bar (Pinto 706, tel. 02293/444100) and the Scotch Bar (9 de Julio 760) are also worth checking out.
Shopping
Along with San Antonio de Areco, Tandil is one of the best places on the pampas to shop for gaucho souvenirs such as horse gear, leather, and silver. Talabartería La Yunta (Sarmiento 607) has an outstanding selection.
The other local specialty is dairy products and cured meats, such as ham and salami. One of the classic shops is Época de Quesos (San Martín and 14 de Julio, tel. 02293/448750).
Sports and Recreation
Tandil is ideal for recreational activities. Swimmers can try the three pools at the Balneario del Sol (Avenida Zarini s/n, tel. 02293/435697) on the Dique del Fuerte, a sprawling reservoir 12 blocks south of Plaza Independencia.
It’s also a major site for mountain biking, with several rental agencies within town, and rock climbing thanks to its steep granite faces (though the summits themselves are walkups). For horseback riding, contact Gabriel Barletta Cabalgatas (Avellaneda 673, tel. 02293/427725, cell 15/509609, cabalgatasbarletta@yahoo.com.ar), who also arranges trekking and canoeing.
Information
In the summer high season, the Dirección Municipal de Turismo (Local 6 in the Galería de los Puentes at 9 de Julio 555, tel. 02293/432073 or 448698, tandilturismo@infovia.com.ar, www.tandil.gov.ar) is open 8 a.m.–8 p.m. weekdays, 8:30 a.m.–8 p.m. Saturday, and 9 a.m.–1:30 p.m. Sunday. The rest of the year, hours are 9 a.m.–7 p.m. weekdays only. It offers a good city map and brochures.
There is also a useful private website, www.gruposierras.com.
For motorists, ACA is at Rodríguez 399, tel. 02293/425463.
Services
Jonestur (San Martín 698, tel. 02293/434838) is Tandil’s only exchange house. There are numerous ATMs, including BankBoston (Pinto 745).
Correo Argentino is at Pinto 623; the postal code is 7000.
Telefónica de la Sierra (Alem 575), two-plus blocks northeast of Plaza Independencia, also has Internet access. Cyber Plaza, on Rodríguez on the east side of Plaza Independencia, keeps long hours for Internet access.
The Hospital Municipal Ramón Santamarina is at General Paz 1406, tel. 02293/422010. The private CAMI (Pinto 851, tel. 02293/425107) comes highly recommended for 24-hour emergency services.
Barbini Turismo (Rodríguez 40, tel. 02293/428912) is a reliable local agency for tours and activities in the area.
Getting There and Around
Tandil’s only air service is to Aeroparque (Buenos Aires) with Aerovip (Rodríguez 607, tel. 02293/422552), which flies 19-seaters.
The Terminal de Buses (Avenida Buzón 650, tel. 02293/432092) has frequent services to Buenos Aires (US$10, five hours), and several more to Mar del Plata (US$4, 2.5 hours). There are better connections elsewhere in the country from the city of Azul, 90 kilometers to the northwest.
Localiza (Mitre 585, tel. 02293/447099) has rental cars.
TANDIL
Surrounded by the rounded slopes of its namesake Sierras, Tandil offers literal relief from the relentlessly flat pampas of southern Buenos Aires Province—even though its granitic summits top out at Cerro Albión, only 502 meters above sea level. Still, its irregular terrain has sufficed to make charmingly cobblestoned Tandil one of southern Buenos Aires Province’s top recreational destinations.
Tandil is also a major pilgrimage site at Easter, when tens of thousands of the faithful converge at cross-topped Monte Calvario, so called for its supposed resemblance to Golgotha. The city is also known for its gaucho souvenirs and for delectable homemade hams, salamis, and cheeses.
History
Placid Tandil has had a remarkably violent past ever since its origins as Fuerte Independencia, a military outpost established by Martín Rodríguez in 1823, in the course of Argentina’s relentless campaign against its indigenous inhabitants. When the dictator Juan Manuel de Rosas assumed power in 1829, the conflict intensified. Between 1820 and 1870, according to one contemporary estimate, the Pampas Indians had rustled 11 million cattle, two million horses, and two million sheep, and had killed 50,000 people and destroyed 3,000 houses.
While the indigenous frontier had largely receded by 1872, violence itself did not vanish. One of the most infamous incidents occurred on New Year’s Day of that year, as the messianic healer Gerónimo de Solané, popularly known as Tata Dios (literally, “God the Father”) or Médico Dios (“God the Doctor”) inspired a brief but bloody reign of throat-slitting terror against foreigners. Some 35 European settlers—British, French, Italian, and Spanish—died at the hands of Solané’s gaucho followers; the only Argentine death was an apparent victim of mistaken identity.
In part, the gauchos were motivated by resentment of their own marginal status, but the influence of landowners and corrupt local officials, in an area where Buenos Aires’s authority was tenuous, likely played a part as well. Solané, though he himself did not participate in the massacres, died unaccountably of gunshot wounds while detained in the Tandil jail.
The Tandil massacres were not unique in their day, but such extreme and seemingly unprovoked violence had international repercussions. The perception grew, particularly among British observers in Buenos Aires and overseas, that Argentina’s federal government could not guarantee the lives and livelihoods of settlers. Immigration declined and foreign investment withdrew, at least temporarily; some historians have argued that this set a pattern of mistrust that continues to the present.
Orientation
Tandil (population 100,869) is 360 kilometers south of Buenos Aires via RN 3 and RN 226, and 160 kilometers northwest of Mar del Plata via RN 226. Plaza Independencia sits precisely in the center of the city’s compact original grid, which is bounded by Avenida España to the north, Avenida Rivadavia to the west, Avenida Santamarina to the east, and Avenida Avellaneda to the south.
Sights
Densely wooded, dotted with neoclassical statuary and fountains, Plaza Independencia occupies two full blocks; an obelisk in its center marks Tandil’s Piedra Fundamental, the city’s founding stone.
On the former site of Fuerte Independencia (which was demolished in 1864), on the south side of the plaza, the Municipalidad de Tandil occupies the former Banco Hipotecario Nacional. Around the corner is the Museo de Bellas Artes (Fine Arts Museum, Chacabuco 367, tel. 02293/432067, 5–8 p.m. daily except Monday).
Across the street from the Municipalidad, the neo-Gothic Templo de la Inmaculada Concepción (1878) includes stones from Fuerte Independencia, but the triple towers are a late (1969) addition. Its campanario (bell tower, 1931) came from Bochum, Germany.
Tandil’s Museo Tradicionalista (4 de Abril 485, tel. 02293/424025, 4–8 p.m. daily) is a classic kitchen-sink museum that includes just about everything under the sun that has anything to do with Tandil—and it looks like they’ve tried to make room for every item they possess. It’s rather like visiting a thrift shop—hundreds of photographs, works by local artists, a replica of a pulpería (rural bar), dozens of horse carriages, and even a 1940s fighter plane, in 17 huge exhibit halls.
Tandil proper is mostly level, but the Sierras start barely six blocks southwest of the plaza in Parque Independencia, whose main entrance is at the corner of Avenida Avellaneda and Rondeau.
To the northwest, at the end of Avenida Monseñor de Andrea, Monte Calvario is the site of Easter ceremonies.
In 1872, the followers of Tata Dios gathered at Cerro La Movediza, about three kilometers northwest of the plaza, where a 300-ton boulder wobbled in the wind for centuries before finally falling four decades later. According to legend, the so-called Piedra Movediza withstood all the efforts of General Rosas’s draft animals to pull it down. Bus No. 503 (blue) goes directly there.
Entertainment
The Teatro Cervantes (Rodríguez 551, tel. 02293/449607) is Tandil’s major performing arts venue and an historical monument—tango legend Carlos Gardel performed five times here, the last time in 1933, only two years before his untimely death.
For movies, try the Cines Plaza (Chacabuco 517, tel. 02293/448600) or the Cinecenter (Panamá 351, tel. 02293/422332).
Tandil enjoys a lively bar scene at places like the stylishly punning Bar Tolomé (Rodríguez and Mitre, tel. 02293/422951), which also has live music; the name derives from its location on the street named for President Bartolomé Mitre. The Golden Bar (Pinto 706, tel. 02293/444100) and the Scotch Bar (9 de Julio 760) are also worth checking out.
Shopping
Along with San Antonio de Areco, Tandil is one of the best places on the pampas to shop for gaucho souvenirs such as horse gear, leather, and silver. Talabartería La Yunta (Sarmiento 607) has an outstanding selection.
The other local specialty is dairy products and cured meats, such as ham and salami. One of the classic shops is Época de Quesos (San Martín and 14 de Julio, tel. 02293/448750).
Sports and Recreation
Tandil is ideal for recreational activities. Swimmers can try the three pools at the Balneario del Sol (Avenida Zarini s/n, tel. 02293/435697) on the Dique del Fuerte, a sprawling reservoir 12 blocks south of Plaza Independencia.
It’s also a major site for mountain biking, with several rental agencies within town, and rock climbing thanks to its steep granite faces (though the summits themselves are walkups). For horseback riding, contact Gabriel Barletta Cabalgatas (Avellaneda 673, tel. 02293/427725, cell 15/509609, cabalgatasbarletta@yahoo.com.ar), who also arranges trekking and canoeing.
Information
In the summer high season, the Dirección Municipal de Turismo (Local 6 in the Galería de los Puentes at 9 de Julio 555, tel. 02293/432073 or 448698, tandilturismo@infovia.com.ar, www.tandil.gov.ar) is open 8 a.m.–8 p.m. weekdays, 8:30 a.m.–8 p.m. Saturday, and 9 a.m.–1:30 p.m. Sunday. The rest of the year, hours are 9 a.m.–7 p.m. weekdays only. It offers a good city map and brochures.
There is also a useful private website, www.gruposierras.com.
For motorists, ACA is at Rodríguez 399, tel. 02293/425463.
Services
Jonestur (San Martín 698, tel. 02293/434838) is Tandil’s only exchange house. There are numerous ATMs, including BankBoston (Pinto 745).
Correo Argentino is at Pinto 623; the postal code is 7000.
Telefónica de la Sierra (Alem 575), two-plus blocks northeast of Plaza Independencia, also has Internet access. Cyber Plaza, on Rodríguez on the east side of Plaza Independencia, keeps long hours for Internet access.
The Hospital Municipal Ramón Santamarina is at General Paz 1406, tel. 02293/422010. The private CAMI (Pinto 851, tel. 02293/425107) comes highly recommended for 24-hour emergency services.
Barbini Turismo (Rodríguez 40, tel. 02293/428912) is a reliable local agency for tours and activities in the area.
Getting There and Around
Tandil’s only air service is to Aeroparque (Buenos Aires) with Aerovip (Rodríguez 607, tel. 02293/422552), which flies 19-seaters.
The Terminal de Buses (Avenida Buzón 650, tel. 02293/432092) has frequent services to Buenos Aires (US$10, five hours), and several more to Mar del Plata (US$4, 2.5 hours). There are better connections elsewhere in the country from the city of Azul, 90 kilometers to the northwest.
Localiza (Mitre 585, tel. 02293/447099) has rental cars.
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