QUILMES

Arguably northwestern Argentina’s single most impressive pre-Columbian ruins, the fortified settlement of Quilmes ascends the arid eastern slope of the Cerro Alto del Rey, 77 kilometers northwest of Tafí del Valle and 55 kilometers south of Cafayate. Covering about 30 hectares, the city supported a population upwards of 5,000 in terraced structures with thick walls, overlooking irrigated farmlands.

Dating from about a.d. 1000, Quilmes developed autonomously as part of the regional Diaguita/Calchaquí culture, but came under Inka influence in the late 15th century. The Quilmes Indians fiercely resisted the Spaniards who, when they defeated them in 1667, deported the last 2,000 survivors to Buenos Aires, where an industrial southern suburb, known for its beer factory, is their sad legacy.

Climbing and exploring the ruins of Quilmes is a rewarding experience that justifies at least half a day in its own right, and the ideal would be to spend the night camping at the site or staying at its low-impact hotel. Admission to the museum (US$1), where there’s also an excellent crafts selection at the museum shop, includes access to the ruins.

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Getting There and Around
Empresa Aconquija buses from San Miguel de Tucumán and Tafí del Valle to Cafayate will drop passengers at the junction, as will return services from Cafayate to Santa María or Tafí. From the junction, though, it’s a five-kilometer hike or hitch (vehicles are few) to the ruins, which are five kilometers west of the highway.