Destination content © Wayne Bernhardson, used from Moon Handbooks Argentina, 1st Edition.
Maps © Avalon Publishing Group, Inc.
MAR DEL PLATA
In January and February, sun-seekers search for a spot on the sand beyond the colorful canvas tents of the countless balnearios that line the beaches of Mar del Plata, Argentina’s premier seaside resort. On the southern coast of Buenos Aires Province, far less exclusive than it was when the Argentine counterpart to Britain’s Bloomsbury group dominated the social scene, “Mardel” has become the affordable destination for working- and middle-class holiday-makers from Buenos Aires and around the country. After Buenos Aires, it’s the country’s major destination for congresses and conventions, and also a major arts and entertainment center.
Because of its popularity, Mar del Plata can seem suffocatingly crowded in summer. Foreign visitors may enjoy the spring and autumn shoulder seasons, when the weather is often better, prices fall, and lines are shorter for the major attractions, but services may be fewer.
History
In 1581 Juan de Garay, the founder of Buenos Aires, was probably the first European to spot what he called the costa galana (“elegant coast,” a term still used today), but it took nearly two centuries for Jesuit missionaries to establish a presence inland, in the area known as Laguna de los Padres. It took another century-plus for Portuguese investors to build a saladero (meat and hide salting plant) and the port that became Mar de Plata, after they sold out to Patricio Peralta Ramos, in 1874.
Peralta Ramos promoted Mar del Plata as an industrial center and, later, as a beach resort that brought the porteño elite to build summer chalets in Barrio los Troncos. The writer Victoria Ocampo, daughter of one of those elite families and founder of the literary magazine Sur, put Mardel on the cultural map by bringing famous writers from around Latin America and the world to her own summer house, now a cultural center and museum.
Many families of the Ocampo era have since departed for other provincial beach resorts like Villa Gesell and Pinamar, and even the Uruguayan resort of Punta del Este. Mar del Plata’s declining exclusivity is reflected in the number of hotels that belong to labor unions, in the one- and two-star categories, that date from the Perón era. Since then, working- and middle-class families have deluged the city in the summer months, despite the survival of some elite barrios. In others, though, generic high-rises have blocked the sun and blighted the neighborhood.
Orientation
Mar del Plata (population 541,857) stretches along eight kilometers of sandy Atlantic beaches, 404 kilometers south of Buenos Aires via RP 2, a four-lane toll road. Most sights lie within the downtown area bounded by the curving coastline, Avenida Independencia (which runs northeast-southwest), and Avenida Juan B. Justo (which leads northwest from the port). The coastal road, popularly known as Blvd. Marítimo, is called Avenida Peralta Ramos in the downtown area but changes names to the north (Avenida Félix U. Camet) and south (Avenida Martínez de Hoz).
For most of the day, the busiest part of town is the parallel pedestrian malls of San Martín and Rivadavia downtown. Other major activity centers are the commercial strip of Güemes, southeast of the bus terminal, and Avenida Leandro N. Alem in the Playa Grande area, to the south, where there are many new restaurants.
Sights
Emtur, Mardel’s municipal tourist authority, offers free guided tours known as Paseos para Gente Inquieta (Excursions for Restless People), which require advance registration at their office at Blvd. Marítimo 2270. Among the sights visited are Villa Victoria (home of writer Victoria Ocampo and now a major cultural center), the impressive new Museo del Mar (Museum of the Sea), and the Base Naval Mar del Plata (the Argentine navy base).
The densely built downtown has only a handful of sights, such as the century-old, neo-Gothic Catedral de San Pedro, on the south side of Plaza San Martín. A block to the northwest, at San Martín and La Rioja, the much smaller Plaza Jorge Luis Borges features Miguel Repiso’s tiled mural of Argentina’s great literary figure.
Several blocks east, the Playa Popular (People’s Beach) is home to the city’s most closely packed concentration of summer rental tents. To the north, just beyond Punta Iglesia, the Monumento a Alfonsina Storni marks the point where, in 1938, the Argentine poet drowned herself by walking into the South Atlantic.
A few blocks farther north, Plaza España is the site of the Museo Municipal de Ciencias Naturales Lorenzo Scaglia (Libertad 3099, tel. 0223/473-8791, 8:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m. weekdays, 3–8 p.m. weekends), Mardel’s outstanding natural sciences museum, displaying outstanding paleontological, archaeological, geological, and zoological exhibits. There’s also a ground-floor aquarium that highlights ocean-going and freshwater local species. Admission costs US$.65 for adults, half that for children ages 6–11.
Mar del Plata may be a more democratic destination than it once was, but Barrio Stella Maris and Barrio los Troncos, southeast of Plaza Colón, still shine with the patina of a patrician past. Rising 88 meters above sea level at Falucho and Mendoza, the terrace of the Torre Tanque waterworks (1943) provides a panoramic perspective on the city’s most appealing residential neighborhoods. The seemingly endless blocks of tile-roofed chalets to the south show that Mardel retains its upper-middle-class status, at the very least. Designed by architect Cornelio Lange, this unusual tower on the Stella Maris hill was the solution to Mar del Plata’s water-distribution problem—Mar del Plata gets all its water from wells—with an elevated tank of 500,000 liters above a two-cistern reservoir of 13 million liters.
The Torre Tanque (Falucho 93, tel. 0223/451-4681, 7 a.m.–1:45 p.m. weekdays only, free) has an elevator that carries visitors to the terrace, but there’s also a spiral staircase along the walls, for either ascending or descending.
Immediately northwest of the tower, the neo-Gothic Iglesia Stella Maris (1910; Brown 1054), is a reminder that Mar del Plata is a major fishing port—its namesake virgin, sculpted by a Rodin disciple, is the fishing fleet’s patron saint. If there’s a queue outside the Villa Normandy (1920), a Francophile residence one block north at Viamonte 2213, it’s because economically desperate Argentines are seeking visas at what is now the Italian consulate.
Across the block, the Museo del Mar (Avenida Colón 1114, tel. 0223/4513553 or 4519779, fax 0223/4516670, informes@museodelmar.com, www.museodelmar.com, US$1) is the city’s most impressive new attraction. Attached to but well integrated with a house dating from Mar del Plata’s aristocratic heyday, this sparklingly new multilevel facility presents collector Benjamín Sisterna’s impressive assortment of 30,000 seashells far better than an earlier downtown museum ever did. Following a boyhood enthusiasm, Sisterna (1914–1995) collected shells from around the world over 60 years, and the well-lighted display cases in the cylindrical atrium are only part of what is a stunning addition to the city’s attractions.
The new museum features a lower-level tidal pool set within its Confitería Gloria Maris, a perfect choice for coffee or lunch, surrounded by an aquarium. The second level contains the bulk of Cisterna’s seashells, a cybercafé, an auditorium, and a museum shop, while the third contains more shells, a lecture hall, and an art gallery. The fourth level has an exhibition hall and a rooftop terrace with outstanding views.
The Museo del Mar is open 8 a.m.–2 a.m. (yes, those hours are correct!) daily in summer; the rest of the year, hours are 8 a.m.–8 p.m. daily except Saturday, when it’s open 8 a.m.–midnight.
Immediately across the street from the museum, at Avenida Colón and Alvear, the Villa Ortiz Basualdo (1909), former summer home for an elite porteño family, now hosts the municipal art museum, Museo Municipal de Arte Juan Carlos Castagnino (Avenida Colón 1189, tel. 0223/486-1636, 5–10 p.m. daily, US$.75 adults, US$.35 children and retirees). Mardel’s fine arts museum takes its name from the Mardel-born painter who, with the Mexican David Siqueiros and others, was responsible for the awesome ceiling murals at Buenos Aires’s Galerías Pacífico. The building itself, in the Francophile style of a Loire Valley castle, still sports its original Belgian furnishings, along with paintings, sculptures, engravings, and photography by Argentine artists.
To the southeast, Avenida Martínez de Hoz leads to the beaches of Cabo Corrientes and Playa Grande, an area whose Avenida Alem and surrounding streets is now one of the city’s most active restaurant and nightlife areas.
To the west is Barrio los Troncos, whose Chalet los Troncos (1938; Urquiza 3454) is a distinctive log-style house; all its raw materials, including the lapacho and quebracho hardwoods and roof tiles, came from Salta Province.
Here you’ll also find Villa Victoria, the onetime residence of writer-muse Victoria Ocampo and now the Centro Cultural Villa Victoria (Matheu 1851, tel. 0223/492-0569, 10 a.m.–1 p.m. and 5–9:30 p.m. daily, US$1). In the 1920s and 1930s, Victoria Ocampo’s Mar del Plata residence was the gathering place for a remarkable diversity of artists and intellectuals from around the world, among them her countryman Jorge Luis Borges, Chilean poet Gabriela Mistral, Indian novelist Rabindranath Tagore, and Russian composer Igor Stravinsky—not to mention her sister—poet Silvina—and Silvina’s husband, the novelist Adolfo Bioy Casares. Founder and editor of the influential literary journal Sur, Ocampo donated the building to UNESCO in 1973, but it later reverted to municipal control as a museum and cultural center.
Nearby is Villa Emilio Mitre (1930), one of the Argentine oligarchy’s classic residences, now the home of the Museo Archivo Histórico Municipal Roberto T. Barili (Lamadrid 3870, tel. 0223/495-1200, villamitre@cultura-mgp.com.ar, 9 a.m.–4 p.m. weekdays, 2–6 p.m. weekends).
Mardel’s municipal history museum documents the city’s history—the good, the bad, and even the ugly high-rises that have come to dominate large parts of the city—through photographs, posters, and a documentary archive.
Admission to the Museo Archivo Histórico costs US$.75 for adults, US$.35 for children. Buses Nos. 523, 524 and 591 go there.
South of downtown, beyond Playa Grande and the Mar del Plata Golf Club, the Banquina de Pescadores is a working fishermen’s wharf whose docks double as a magnet for tourists. Thanks to its rainbow fleet, the maned male southern sea lions that gather for scraps at the end of the day, and the cluster of nearby seafood restaurants, it’s far more entertaining than a day sunning on the beach.
Male sea lions can be aggressive toward humans but here, at least, a fence safely separates them from their human admirers. They, along with the multicolored fishing boats, are ideal subjects for photography.
Named for a Mardel painter, the maritime-themed Museo del Hombre del Puerto Cleto Ciocchini (tel. 0223/480-1228, 4 p.m.–midnight, US$.75 adults, US$.35 kids) occupies new quarters at Centro Comercial del Puerto, at the port entrance.
The Centro Comercial is also home to numerous seafood restaurants where you can order delicacies fresh off the boat. From downtown, local buses Nos. 221, 511, and 581 will drop passengers right at the entrance, only a short walk from the port proper.
From the port, there are also frequent harbor excursions (US$5) on the 30-meter Crucero Anamora (tel. 0223/484-0103). Turimar (tel. 0223/489-7775) has similar but slightly cheaper outings.
Entertainment
In summer, Mar del Plata is Argentina’s entertainment capital, even surpassing Buenos Aires for live theater and musical events. Like the capital, Mardel has carteleras that sell discount tickets to movies, live theater, and live music events; try Cartelera Baires (Santa Fe 1844) or Cartelera Galería de las Américas (Córdoba 1737).
Some venues do not fall easily into a single type. For example, the Centro Cultural Juan Martín de Pueyrredón (25 de Mayo 3108, tel. 0223/499-7876, promocion@mgp.com.ar) offers a broad calendar of events including theater, music, film, and lectures.
Befitting a city with a cinema festival, Mar del Plata is a big moviegoers’ town; some cinemas are cine teatros that double as live theater venues. The main locales are the Cine Ambassador (Córdoba 1673, tel. 0223/495-7271); the Cine Atlas (Avenida Luro 2289, tel. 0223/494-3240); the Cine Teatro América (also at Avenida Luro 2289, tel. 0223/494-3240); the Cine Teatro Enrique Carreras (Entre Ríos 1828, tel. 0223/494-2753); the multiscreen Cines del Paseo (Diagonal Pueyrredón 3058, tel. 0223/496-1100); and the two-screen Cines los Gallegos (Rivadavia 3050, tel. 0223/499-6977).
The Teatro Auditorium (Blvd. Marítimo 2280, tel. 0223/493-7786) is one of the centers of summer musical theater imported from Buenos Aires. Other locales include the Teatro Municipal Colón (Yrigoyen 1665, tel. 0223/494-8571) and the Teatro Corrientes (Corrientes 1766, tel. 0223/493-7918).
For those with money to burn, Mardel’s Casino Central (Blvd. Marítimo 2100, tel. 0223/495-7011) is the place to start the fire.
The Playa Grande Club (Quintana 238, tel. 0223/486-3727) is a major live music venue. There are many live music and dance clubs along Avenida Constitución, among them Gap (Avenida Constitución 5780, tel. 0223/479-6666).
For more-traditional music, try the weekend peñas at Casa del Folklore (San Juan 2543, tel. 0223/472-3955) and Casa de Salta (Libertad 3398).
Events
Argentina’s cinematic revival has begun to restore the prestige of Mardel’s Festival Internacional de Cine, which takes place in March. It’s not Cannes, but that’s a good thing, and there are plenty of quality offerings from Argentina, the rest of Latin America, and the rest of the world.
Mardel holds a Festival Celta of Irish music in January, and celebrates Fundación de la Ciudad, the founding of the city in 1874, on February 10.
Shopping
Mardel’s open-air crafts market, the Diagonal de los Artesanos, lines Pueyrredón between San Martín and Rivadavia. Plaza Rocha’s Mercado de Pulgas (flea market), seven blocks northwest on 20 de Septiembre between Avenida Luro and San Martín, is a wide-ranging flea market.
Mar del Plata’s signature products are sweaters and jackets from Avenida Juan B. Justo, the so-called “Avenida del Pullover,” reached by bus Nos. 561 and 562.
For books, try Librería Galerna (Rivadavia 3050, Local 21, tel. 0223/493-3130).
Sports and Recreation
Most activities in Mar del Plata center on the beach, ranging from sedentary sunbathing to more-active pastimes like swimming, diving, and fishing; even pursuits like parasailing (which seems to go dangerously close to coastal high-rises) take place in the vicinity of the beach. There is also cycling, horseback riding, and even skydiving. For a thorough list of offerings, see Emtur’s free quarterly pamphlet Actividades Recreativas.
Information
The main source of information is Mardel’s municipal Centro de Información Turística (Emtur, Blvd. Marítimo 2270, tel. 0223/495-1777, turismo@mardelplata.com.ar, www.mardelplata.gov.ar). Hours are 8 a.m.–9 p.m. daily but, because of high demand for its services, it’s often impersonal unless you know exactly what you’re looking for, despite its computerized information service, maps, brochures, and activities calendar. In summer only, it operates a branch at the bus terminal.
Nearly alongside the municipal office, the provincial Subsecretaría de Turismo (Local 60 in the Rambla del Hotel Provincial, Blvd. Marítimo 2400, tel. 0223/495-5340) is less helpful. It’s open 8 a.m.–7 p.m. weekdays most of the year, but stays open until 9 p.m. in summer.
For motorists, ACA is at Avenida Colón 1450, tel. 0223/491-2096.
The library at the Sociedad de Cultura Inglesa (San Luis 2498, tel. 0223/495-6513) has English-language books, magazines, and newspapers.
Services
Numerous banks have ATMs, including Banco de la Nación (San Martín 2594) and Banco de la Provincia (San Martín 2563). Exchange houses include La Moneta (Rivadavia 2623) and Jonestur (San Martín 2574 and Avenida Luro 3191).
Correo Argentino is at Avenida Luro 2460; Mardel’s postal code is 7600.
Long-distance phone, fax, and Internet offices are abundant, such as at Locutorio Arenales (Arenales 2344). Many locutorios have Internet services, but also try the Internet Center (Moreno 2840).
Oti International (San Luis 1632, tel. 0223/494-5414) is the AmEx representative. The student- and youth-oriented travel agency Asatej is at Santa Fe 2172, tel./fax 0223/495-9000, mardelplata@asatej.com.ar.
Lava-Quick (Las Heras 2471) is one of many laundries.
The Centro de Salud Municipal No. 1 (Avenida Colón 3294, tel. 0223/495-0568) is a central clinic. The Hospital Regional is less central at J.B. Justo 6700, tel. 0223/477-0030). For emergencies, dial 107.
Getting There
Aerolíneas Argentinas/Austral (Moreno 2442, tel. 0223/496-0101) flies several times daily to Buenos Aires. Aerovip (Avenida Córdoba 1621, tel. 0223/494-2376, aerovipmdq@pezzati.com.ar) flies to Buenos Aires, with connections to Rosario, Santa Fe, Montevideo, and Punta del Este.
LADE, Local 5 in the Casino at Blvd Marítimo 2300, tel. 0223/493-8220, flies north to Aeroparque (Buenos Aires) and south to Bahía Blanca, Viedma, San Antonio Oeste, Puerto Madryn, Trelew, Neuquén, Chapelco (San Martín de los Andes), Esquel, and Bariloche. Northbound flights are normally Tuesday and Friday, southbound flights Monday and Thursday, but all are subject to change.
More than 50 bus companies operate out of Mardel’s aging but conveniently central Estación de Ómnibus (Alberti 1602, tel. 0223/451-5406) to destinations around the country. In the peak summer season and on holiday weekends such as Semana Santa, fares may rise and reservations are advisable.
Typical destinations, fares, and times include Villa Gesell (US$3.50, 1.5 hours), Necochea (US$5, two hours), Tandil (US$4, 2.5 hours), La Plata (US$12, five hours), Buenos Aires (US$15–18, 5.5 hours), Bahía Blanca (US$16, seven hours), Rosario (US$18, 10 hours), Neuquén (US$23, 14 hours), Córdoba (US$29, 16 hours), Bariloche (US$37, 19 hours), Puerto Madryn (US$28, 16 hours), and Mendoza (US$29, 18 hours).
Ferrobaires, the provincially run rail service, has offices at the bus terminal, (tel. 0223/451-2501), but the Estación Terminal de Ferrocarril (Avenida Luro 4500, tel. 0223/475-6076) is some 17 blocks northwest of Plaza San Martín. Ferrobaires operates three or so trains to Buenos Aires daily, but service on the luxury train El Marplatense is presently suspended. One-way fares range from US$7 (in stiff-backed vertical clase única) to US$10 (in reclining Pullman seats).
Getting Around
Mar del Plata has an extensive bus system; Emtur’s quarterly brochure Actividades Recreativas (Recreational Activities) lists the appropriate bus lines for sights and activities in the vicinity.
Aeropuerto Félix U. Camet (RN 2 Km 396, tel. 0223/478-3990) is 10 kilometers north of town. City bus No. 542 goes directly there from the corner of Blvd. Marítimo and Belgrano. Taxis and remises charge around US$3.50 pp.
For car rentals, try Hertz/Millet (Córdoba 2149, tel. 0223/496-2772, hertzmardelplata@sinectis.com.ar); Localiza (Córdoba 2270, tel. 0223/493-3461, localizamdp@sinectis.com.ar); or Europcar (Avenida Colón 2450, tel. 0223/491-0091).
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