Cueva de las Manos

Beyond Baja Caracoles, rugged RN 40 traverses the northern steppe until the point where, over millions of years, the Río Pinturas has cut a deep, scenic canyon. In the process, it has left countless aleros, stony overhangs often mistakenly called cuevas or caves. One of these is the famous Cueva de las Manos, a UNESCO World Heritage Site where stencils of hundreds of human hands, guanacos, and abstract forms cover the rock walls in orange, red, and yellow ochres.

Dating from around 7370 b.c. the oldest paintings at Cueva de las Manos represent hunter-gatherers from immediate post-glacial times, but the more-abstract designs, which are fewer, are far more recent. Oddly enough, nearly all the hands from which the site takes its name are left hands.

Along with Parque Nacional Perito Moreno, this is one of the finest detours off RN 40, with two main access points. From Bajo Caracoles in the south, gravel RP 41 goes directly to the site, where the municipality of Perito Moreno operates a small confitería and a rocky campground (US$1 per tent), and charges US$1.50 pp admission to the caves. Bars now block access to the paintings to discourage vandalism (even touching the paintings repeatedly could damage them), but they do not obscure the view.

The other main access point is from the Río Pinturas drainage itself, with two separate alternatives (both of which also offer accommodations). From Estancia Casa de Piedra, 45 kilometers north of Bajo Caracoles, there’s a 12-kilometer access road, at the end of which it’s a three-kilometer hike to the paintings; from Estancia los Toldos, another 23 kilometers north and seven kilometers east, another 15-kilometer access road permits a close approach. Note that, by either the northern or southern route, mountain bikers can avoid backtracking to RN 40 by hauling their bikes over the river (there is a pedestrian bridge) and out the other direction.

On the east side of RN 40 (ideal for cyclists), the bucolic Estancia Casa de Piedra (tel. 02963/432199) allows camping for $1.25 per tent, plus US$1 for showers; it also rents basic but passable rooms for US$5.50/9 s/d with shared bath. At Estancia Los Toldos, Hostería Cueva de las Manos (tel. 011/4901-0436, fax 011/4903-7161, cuevadelasmanos@hotmail.com) has four modern carpeted rooms with private bath (US$30 d) with breakfast, plus very fine hostel accommodations (US$9 pp) without breakfast. Good restaurant lunches cost about US$3.50. It’s open November–March, and for Semana Santa.