VALLES CALCHAQUÍES AND THE ALTIPLANO

West and south of Salta, the Andean canyonlands bear the collective name of the Valles Calchaquíes, after the indigenous Calchaquí or Diaguita peoples who inhabited the area before the Spanish invasion, while the altiplano uplands are a high, thinly populated steppe. Rich in scenery and archaeological heritage, its highlights are the Quebrada del Toro, through which the famous Tren a las Nubes chugs northwest to the Chilean border, the polychrome Quebrada de Cafayate and its wine country, and the picturesque towns of the Río Calchaquí proper.

Several Salta operators offer excursions in the area. MoviTrack (Buenos Aires 28, tel. 0387/431-6749, fax 0387/431-5301, movitrack@movitrack.com.ar, www.movitrack.com.ar) does a one-day Safari a las Nubes (US$68) including San Antonio de los Cobres, Salinas Grandes, and Purmamarca; a two-day excursion that also includes the Quebrada de Humahuaca (US$100); a one-day trip to Los Cardones and Cachi (US$45); and a two-day version that also includes Quilmes and Cafayate (US$80). There are also one-day trips to Cafayate and Quilmes (US$35), to Humahuaca (US$40), and to Dique Cabra Corral (US$27).

Another reliable operator, specializing in natural history and bird-watching in particular, is Clark Expediciones (Caseros 121, Local 2, tel./fax 0387/421-5390, clark@clarkexpediciones.com, www.clarkexpediciones.com), which focuses on the yungas but also travels to the altiplano and other remote areas of the northwest. English-speaking operator Ricardo Clark has written several bird-watching guides, which are for sale along with other books on the region.