CATEDRAL BASÍLICA

Climb the stairs and pass beneath the rose-tinted volcanic stone facade of the basilica, officially, the Catedral Basílica Santuario de la Virgen de San Juan de los Lagos. In addition to the approximately 10 daily masses, the faithful flock inside continually, resting in the pews, pausing up front to pay their respects, and kneeling to pray for the Virgin to grant a wish.

She reigns above all, in a shiny silver case, flanked by glittering marble and gold, beneath the all-seeing Eye of God. In a room to the left of the altar, be sure to view the displayed mass of mute testimony—pictures, letters, clothing, bouquets—from the Virgin’s followers.

Back outside, wander through the ranks of stalls along Moreno on the basilica’s north side and behind, to the east, along Juárez. The abundance is staggering: embroidery, sombreros, serapes, religious goods—pious angels, baby Jesuses, gilded portraits of Jesus and San Juan—and a small mountain of old-fashioned sweets, from dates and rollos (fruit rolls) of tamarind and guava (guayaba) to rompope (guava eggnog) and coconut candy.

Be sure not to miss the milagro stands at the foot of the basilica front steps. The faithful buy the diversely shaped metal charms—dogs, cats, horses, legs, hands, babies, men, women—for making requests (by pinning the token to the robe) of their patron saint.