Jackson Hole’s most popular summertime recreational activity is running Wyoming’s largest river, the Snake. Each year more than 150,000 people climb aboard rafts, canoes, and kayaks to float down placid reaches of the Snake or to blast through the boiling rapids of Snake River Canyon.

(The name “Snake” comes from the Shoshone Indians, who used serpentine hand movements as sign language for their tribal name—a motion trappers misinterpreted as a snake and applied to the river flowing through Shoshone land.)

Almost 20 different rafting companies offer dozens of raft trips each day of the summer. Although you may be able to walk up and get a raft trip the same day, it’s a good idea to reserve ahead for any river trip in July and August.

In general, try to book a trip three or four days in advance and at least one week ahead if you need a specific time, prefer an overnight float trip, or are traveling with a larger group. One or two people are more likely to get onboard at the last minute.

You may want to ask around to determine the advantages of each company. Some are cheaper but require you to drive a good distance from town; others offer more experienced crews; still others provide various perks such as fancy meals, U-paddle trips, overnight camps along the river, interpretive trips, or boats with fewer (or more) people. Several operators also lead seven-hour combination trips that include a lazy float followed by a meal break and a wild whitewater run.

The rafting companies generally operate mid-May-late September, and river conditions change throughout the season. Highest flows—and the wildest rides—are generally in May and June. Get a complete list of floating and boating outfits, along with descriptive brochures, from the visitor center in Jackson.

Float Trips

The gentlest way to see the Snake is by taking one of the many commercial float trips. Along the way, you’ll be treated to stunning views of the Tetons and glimpses of eagles, ospreys, beavers, and perhaps moose or other wildlife along the riverbanks. Several companies—Barker-Ewing Float Trips, Will Dornan’s Snake River Float Trips, Grand Teton Lodge Company, Signal Mountain, Solitude, and Triangle X—offer 10-mile scenic float trips along the quiet stretch within Grand Teton National Park, putting in at Deadman’s Bar and taking out at Moose ($55-60 adults, $35-40 kids). (Grand Teton Lodge Company often puts in at Pacific Creek.) Triangle X offers a unique 12-mile park supper float-and-cookout with access to a private spot along the river.

Other rafting companies offer 13-mile South Park float trips outside the park, putting in at the bridge near Wilson and taking out above Hoback Junction ($45-60 adults, $40-50 kids, lunch included). Companies offering this trip are Barker-Ewing Whitewater & Scenic, Dave Hansen, Lewis & Clark, Sands, Will Dornan’s Snake River Float Trips, Jackson Hole Whitewater, Snake River Kayak & Canoe School, Snake River Park, Solitude, Teton Whitewater, and Teton Expeditions.

In-the-park trips are considerably more scenic, so know what you’re getting before you sign up since the differences are not emphasized by the rafting companies (at least not by those who don’t operate inside the park). Given the choice, I would always choose the trip that passes below the Tetons over the one that skirts suburban Jackson. Some companies add options such as breakfast cookouts or overnight trips with camping along the way.

Age limits vary, but kids must generally be at least eight to float the river. Raft companies usually have folks meet up in either Jackson or Moose. A wide variety of special voyages are also available, including overnight camping and fish-and-float trips.

The following rafting outfits offer a variety of float trips. Pick up their slick brochures at the visitor center or from their offices scattered around town.

• Barker-Ewing Float Trips

307/733-1800 or 800/365-1800
www.barkerewing.com

• Barker-Ewing Whitewater & Scenic

307/733-1000 or 800/448-4202
www.barker-ewing.com

• Dave Hansen Scenic Float Trips

307/733-6295 or 800/732-6295
www.davehansenscenicfloattrips.com

• Grand Teton Lodge Company

307/543-3100 or 800/628-9988
www.gtlc.com

• Jackson Hole Whitewater

307/733-1007 or 800/700-7238
www.jhww.com

• Lewis & Clark Expeditions

307/733-4022 or 800/824-5375
www.lewisandclarkriverrafting.com

• Mad River Boat Trips

307/733-6203 or 800/458-7238
www.mad-river.com

• Sands Wild Water

307/733-4410 or 800/358-8184
www.sandswhitewater.com

• Signal Mountain Lodge and Marina

307/543-2831 or 307/543-2831
www.signalmountainlodge.com

• Snake River Kayak & Canoe School

307/733-9999 or 800/529-2501
www.snakeriverkayak.com

• Snake River Park Whitewater

307/733-7078 or 800/562-1878
www.snakeriverwhitewater.com

• Solitude Scenic Float Trips

307/733-2871 or 888/704-2800
www.solitudefloattrips.com

• Teton Expeditions

307/733-1007 or 888/700-7238
www.tetonexpeditions.com

• Teton Whitewater

307/733-2285 or 866/716-7238
www.tetonwhitewater.com

• Triangle X Float Trips

a.k.a. National Park Float Trips
307/733-5500 or 888/860-0005
www.trianglex.com

• Will Dornan’s Snake River Float Trips

307/733-3699 or 888/998-7688
www.jacksonholefloattrips.com

As an aside, one of the oldest names in the business, Barker-Ewing, is actually two different operations with rather different agendas. Barker-Ewing originated in 1963 when Dick Barker and Frank Ewing started guiding clients down the Snake River. They went their separate ways in 1984, and today, the Barker family operates Grand Teton National Park float trips under the name Barker-Ewing Float Trips, while the Ewing family runs Snake River whitewater trips and South Park floats under the name Barker-Ewing Whitewater & Scenic.

Both companies splash “Barker-Ewing” across the top of their brochures, adding to the confusion for many travelers. Despite any tension between the two companies, both are first-rate operations with some of the most experienced guides anywhere.

You can also float the river with any of the local fishing outfitters and combine angling with drifting downriver. One good company—it gives a really personalized tour—is Wooden Boat River Tours (307/732-2628, www.woodboattours.com, $400 for up to three passengers), which has classic wooden dories.

Note that a few of the raft operators are regarded as “training grounds” for other companies; recommended outfits with good records include Barker-Ewing Float Trips, Solitude, Dave Hansen, and Triangle X. Grand Teton Lodge Float Trips often use massive 15-person rafts with two oarsmen. Unfortunately, three people died in a 2006 accident when one of their rafts hit a tree that had been uprooted by high water, throwing all the passengers into the river. Use caution before booking a river trip when the river is running high following a heavy snowpack year.

Whitewater Trips

Below Jackson, the Snake enters the wild Snake River Canyon, a stretch early explorers labeled “the accursed mad river.” The usual put-in point for whitewater “rapid-transit” trips is West Table Creek Campground, 26 miles south of Jackson. The take-out point is Sheep Gulch, eight miles downstream. In between, the river rocks and rolls through the narrow canyon, pumping past waterfalls and eagle nests and then over the two biggest rapids, Big Kahuna and Lunch Counter, followed by the smaller Rope and Champagne rapids.

For a look at the action from the highway, stop at the paved turnout at milepost 124, where a trail leads down to Lunch Counter. The river changes greatly throughout the season, with the highest water and wildest rides in June. By August the water has warmed enough for a quick dip. Be sure to ask your river guide about the Jeep that sits in 60 feet of water below Lunch Counter!

Whitewater trips last about 3.5 hours (including transportation from Jackson) and cost about $60-65 adults, $50-55 children (age limits vary). Seven-hour combination trips covering 21 miles include a float trip, deli lunch, and whitewater run for $94-110 adults, $78-90 kids. You’ll find discounted rates early or late in the summer.

One feature to consider is raft size. Many companies use smaller eight-person rafts (often called U-paddle), but trips on 14-person monsters are a few dollars cheaper. The U-paddle versions are more fun than letting the guide do all the work in an oar raft, and the smaller eight-person rafts provide the most challenging—and wettest—runs. Snake River Kayak & Canoe offers two-person “rubber duckie” kayak trips.

Note that this is not exactly a wilderness experience, especially in mid-July, when stretches of the river look like a Los Angeles freeway with traffic jams of rafts, kayaks, inner tubes, and other flotsam and jetsam. The river isn’t as crowded on weekdays and early in the morning; take an 8 a.m. run for the fewest people. Early in the season when the river is high and fast your trip can be quite short, sometimes just 45 minutes on the water.

Don’t take a camera along unless it’s waterproof; bankside float-tographers are positioned along the biggest rapids to shoot both commercial and private rafters. Stop by Float-O-Graphs (130 W. Broadway Ave., 307/733-6453 or 888/478-7427, www.floatographs.com) for a photo from your run. Another company with a similar service is Snake River Whitewater Photos and Video (140 N. Cache Dr., 307/733-7015 or 800/948-3426, www.snakeriverphotos.net). Both companies also post photos online.

Most outfitters include round-trip transportation from Jackson. (Prices are a bit lower from Snake River Park Whitewater, but you’ll need to drive to their office at Hoback Junction, 13 miles south of town.) Some companies also offer trips that combine an eight-mile scenic float trip through South Park with an eight-mile whitewater trip for about $85-90 adults or $75-80 kids.

Rafting companies provide wet suits and booties, but expect to get wet, so wear lightweight clothes and bring a jacket for the return ride.

The following outfitters offer whitewater raft trips. Recommended companies with good safety records and well-trained staff include Barker-Ewing, Dave Hansen, and Sands. The largest local rafting company, Mad River, has a reputation as a proving ground for novice guides (but its prices are typically lower than those of other operators).

• Barker-Ewing Whitewater & Scenic

307/733-1000 or 800/448-4202
www.barker-ewing.com

• Dave Hansen Whitewater

307/733-6295 or 800/732-6295
www.davehansenwhitewater.com

• Jackson Hole Whitewater

307/733-1007 or 800/700-7238
www.jhww.com

• Lewis & Clark Expeditions

307/733-4022 or 800/824-5375
www.lewisandclarkriverrafting.com

• Mad River Boat Trips

307/733-6203 or 800/458-7238
www.mad-river.com

• Sands Wild Water

307/733-4410 or 800/358-8184
www.sandswhitewater.com

• Snake River Kayak and Canoe School

307/733-9999 or 800/529-2501
www.snakeriverkayak.com

• Snake River Park Whitewater

307/733-7078 or 800/562-1878
www.snakeriverwhitewater.com

• Teton Whitewater

307/733-2285 or 866/716-7238
www.tetonwhitewater.com

Riding and Rafts (307/654-9900, www.jacksonholerecreation.com) has raft rentals ($100-115) if you want to float the rapids on your own.