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Enjoy top-notch Serbian food in a delightful Old World atmosphere at Three Brothers (2414 S. St. Clair St., Bay View, 414/481-7530, 5–10 p.m. Tues.–Thurs., 4–11 p.m. Fri.–Sat., and 4–10 p.m. Sun., $11 and up). The 1897 turreted brick corner house, an original Schlitz brewery beer parlor, was turned into a restaurant by the present owner’s father, a Serbian wine merchant.
Not much has changed—the high paneled ceilings, original wood, dusty bottles on the bar, mirrors, and mismatched tables and chairs. All of it is charming. The food is heavy on pork and chicken, lots of paprikash and stuffed cabbage. The signature entrée is burek, a filled phyllo dough concoction the size of a radial tire; you wait a half hour for this one.
The restaurant is difficult to find—this neighborhood is the real Milwaukee—you’ll likely wind up asking for directions from a horseshoe club outside a local tavern. Take Superior to Bay View and then take a left on Russell; that should get you to St. Clair. The views from Bay View’s side streets are absolutely splendid.
One little-known place for Serbian in south Milwaukee is Fritz’s Pub (20th and Oklahoma, 10 a.m.–1a.m. Mon–Tues, 7 a.m.–1 a.m. Wed–Sat, closed Sun), with a decent selection of Serbian-style sandwiches.
© Thomas Huhti from Moon Wisconsin, 5th Edition