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The food will clear your sinuses, but the spices don’t dominate the wondrously simple but rich fare at Lao Laan-Xang (1146 Williamson St., 608/280-0104, $6–16), which has good specials. Hours are complicated, but essentially lunch and dinner daily.
If they’re full, head two blocks east and you’ll find the newer Ha Long Bay (1353 Williamson St., 608/255-2868, lunch and dinner daily, $6–15), a fusion of Vietnamese-Thai-Lao cuisine. Go for whatever—it’s all done well.
© Thomas Huhti from Moon Wisconsin, 5th Edition