Sights

Make your first stop the Carcross Visitor Information Centre (867/821-4431, early May–late Sept. daily 10 a.m.–6 p.m., July–Aug. daily 8 a.m.–8 p.m.), housed in a railway station that served passengers along the White Pass & Yukon Route (WP&YR). It contains not only brochures from all over the Yukon, but also fine historical exhibits.

WP&YR trains crossed the original “swing bridge” in town, built to allow the riverboats to pass; walk across the bridge for a look back. A footbridge is just north of this. In the old Carcross cemetery, two kilometers (1.2 miles) away, rest such stampede-starting notables as Skookum Jim, Tagish Charlie, and Kate Carmack.

Accommodations and Food

The standout lodging is on Spirit Lake, a 10-minute drive north of Carcross toward Whitehorse. At Spirit Lake Wilderness Resort (867/821-4337 or 866/739-8566, www.spiritlakeyukon.com) the lakeside cabins ($75 s or d) are my pick for the views and rustic charm, although they don’t have electricity or running water (shared shower facilities). Other choices are cottages ($65 s or d) and motel rooms ($99 s or d) that lack the atmosphere but are more comfortable. Tent sites are $25 and hookups $30–35. Activities include canoeing and horseback riding and there’s an on-site restaurant.

Wheaton River Wilderness Retreat (867/668-2997, www.wheatonriver.net, $125 s or d) is truly in the wilderness, 22 kilometers (13.7 miles) along Annie Lake Road, which branches off Highway 2 north of Spirit Lake. Accommodation is offered for up to four people in a riverfront cabin constructed with timber milled onsite by the owners. The interior is spacious, airy, and modern, with wooden furniture carved by the owners. Breaskfast is $10 per person, and other meals are also available; or you can cook up a feast yourself on the wood stove or barbecue.

© Andrew Hempstead, from Moon Western Canada, 3rd Edition