Cozy and friendly, Hotel Packwood (104 Main St., 360/494-5431, www.packwoodwa.com) is a renovated 1912 hotel that sends its guests back in time with its big veranda and lobby featuring a brick fireplace and antique piano. Stay in modest rooms with shared ($30 s or d) or private ($49) baths. Or opt for the Roosevelt Suite, which hosted T.R. back in the hotel’s heyday.

Enjoy the heated outdoor pool in the summer and gazebo hot tub when the white stuff falls at Mountain View Lodge & Motel (13163 Hwy. 12, 360/494-5555, www.mtvlodge.com, $45–150 s or d), a favorite stopover for Seattle skiers headed up to White Pass Ski Resort.

Crest Trail Lodge (12729 Hwy. 12, 360/494-4944 or 800/477-5339, www.cresttraillodge.com, $80 s or 90 d) offers standard motel rooms, plus a hot tub, continental breakfast, and free wireless Internet.

Another good place to get out of the elements, Inn of Packwood (12032 Hwy. 12, 360/494-5500, www.innofpackwood.com, $50 s or d) also sports an outdoor pool and hot tub. The inn has kitchenette units available for $145 for up to six people.

Peters Inn (13051 Hwy. 12, 360/494-4000, Sun.–Thurs. 6 a.m.–9 p.m., Fri.–Sat. 6 a.m.––10 p.m.) has good breakfasts, seafood in season, steaks and prime rib, and homemade pies.