The most popular place for Seattle jazz buffs is Dimitriou’s Jazz Alley (2033 6th Ave., 206/441-9729, www.jazzalley.com) where big-time national acts and up-and-coming talent can be heard. This is an elegant, dress-up place. More authentic is my favorite, Tulas Jazz Club (2214 2nd Ave., 206/443-4221), an old-fashioned speak-easy-type lounge that is only missing the bouncer asking for a code word. Quarters are cramped, service is surly, and the music is like honey. That’s the way it’s supposed to be, you dig?

Find more live jazz at the Seattle Art Museum (206/654-3100, www.seattleartmuseum.org) on the second Thursday of the month January through June.

The unpretentious Owl ’n' Thistle Irish Pub (808 Post Ave., 206/621-7777, www.owlnthistle.com) is Seattle’s most famous Irish pub, with world-class Celtic tunes from the house band on weekends, and a wide range of other styles the rest of the week—from blues to jazz to rock. There’s no cover charge, and the back room has pool and darts. Needless to say, Guinness is the drink of choice.

In Pioneer Square, there are a number of places to find live tunes. New Orleans Restaurant (114 1st St., 206/622-2563) serves up spicy Creole meals plus Dixieland jazz, blues, and zydeco. Seattle’s oldest bar, Central Saloon (207 1st Ave., 206/622-0209) offers great blues, jazz, funk, and reggae bands seven nights a week. Doc Maynard’s (610 1st Ave., 206/682-4649, www.docmaynards.com) is a restored 1890s saloon with loud rock and roll.