Tucked away into a restored Folk Victorian cottage on a quiet downtown Goldendale street, The Glass Onion (604 S. Columbus Ave., 509/773-4928, www.theglassonionrestaurant.com, 11 a.m.–4 p.m. Wed., 11 a.m.–9 p.m. Thurs.–Sat.) is a secret little treasure that foodies will want to take a detour to visit while rambling the vineyards of the Gorge. The seasonal menu is short, but every dish is an artfully plated symphony of flavors, such as the from-scratch pea soup and the grilled pork tenderloin served with ratatouille. Don’t skip a salad with that entrée—they are as fresh as it gets. Check out the fine art photos displayed on the walls while waiting for your dishes—they’re taken by the chef’s wife, a professional photographer.
For more day-to-day fare, Gee’s Family Restaurant (118 E Main St., Goldendale, 509/773-6999, 10:30 a.m.–9:30 p.m. Mon.–Sat., 11:30 a.m.–8:30 p.m. Sun.) has decent Americanized Chinese dishes. Interestingly enough, it also grills up Goldendale’s best burgers. These suckers are big enough for a couple of lumberjacks to split.
Sodbuster’s Restaurant (1040 E. Broadway, Goldendale, 509/773-6160, 6 a.m.–9 p.m. Mon.–Sat., 6 a.m.–8 p.m. Sun.) is also a reliable choice with its versatile diner menu. It’s got the best breakfast fare in town.
© Ericka Chickowski from Moon Washington, 8th edition