While tourists flock to the cafés and restaurants of the Inner Harbour and Government Street, Douglas Street remains the haunt of lunching locals. Reminiscent of days gone by, John’s Place (723 Pandora Ave., 250/389-0711, Mon.–Fri. 7 a.m.–9 p.m., Sat.–Sun. 8 a.m.–9 p.m., $8–14), just off Douglas Street, serves up excellent value for those in the know. The food is good, the atmosphere casual, and the waitresses actually seem to enjoy working here. It’s breakfast, burgers, salads, and sandwiches through the week, but weekend brunch is busiest, when there’s nearly always a line spilling onto the street.

In Old Town, Willies Bakery (537 Johnson St., 250/381-8414, daily from 7:30 a.m.) is an old-style café offering cakes, pastries, and sodas, with a quiet cobbled courtyard in which to enjoy them. Ignore the dated furnishings at the Dutch Bakery (718 Fort St., 250/385-1012, Tues.–Sat. 7:30 a.m.–5:30 p.m.) and tuck into freshly baked goodies and handmade chocolates.