Telegraph Cove
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Highway 19, covering the 235 kilometers (146 miles) between Campbell River and Port Hardy, traverses relatively untouched wilderness. The first of two diversions is the charming village of Telegraph Cove, eight kilometers (five miles) from Port McNeil. Most visitors come to Telegraph Cove to go whale-watching on Johnstone Strait, but the village itself is among the most picturesque on the island.
Built around a deep sheltered harbor, it’s one of the last existing “boardwalk” communities on the island. Many of the buildings stand on stilts and pilings over the water, linked by a boardwalk.
Fewer than 20 people live here year-round, but the population swells enormously during late spring and summer when whale-watching, diving, and fishing charters do a roaring trade, and kayakers arrive to paddle along Johnstone Strait.
Walk along the boardwalk, passing cabins, kayak rentals, an art gallery, a small interpretive center, the Killer Whale Cafe (late May–mid-Oct.) and a store selling groceries and fishing tackle.
Whale-Watching
Johnstone Strait, offshore from Telegraph Cove, is an unparalleled destination for viewing orcas (killer whales) up close and personal. These magnificent, intelligent mammals spend the summer in the waters around Telegraph Cove and are most concentrated in Robson Bight, where they rub on the gravel beaches near the mouth of the Tsitka River.
Stubbs Island Whale Watching (604/928-3185 or 800/665-3066, www.stubbs-island.com, $89 per person) pioneered whale-watching trips in the early 1980s and was involved in the establishment of Robson Bight as an ecological reserve. The company’s two boats, Lukwa and Gikumi, depart Telegraph Cove on 3.5-hour whale-watching cruises daily late May–early October.
Accommodations and Camping
Many of the buildings on the boardwalk have been converted to guest accommodation and can be rented by the night (reserve well in advance). The quarters range from extremely basic cabins ($110 s or d) to three-bedroom restored houses sleeping up to eight people ($295). About the only thing they have in common is the incredible setting. Finally, a short walk from the village is a campground with wooded sites as well as showers, a laundry, boat launch, and store. Sites are $25–30.
For reservations at any of the above options, contact Telegraph Cove Resorts (250/928-3131 or 800/200-4665, www.telegraphcoveresort.com).
© Andrew Hempstead, from Moon Western Canada, 3rd Edition
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