Scenic Byway 143
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Beginning in Parowan, Hwy. 143 very quickly climbs up to nearly 10,000 feet, ascending some of the steepest paved roads in Utah in the process (some of the grades here are 13 percent). The terrain changes from arid desert to pine forests to alpine aspen forests in just 14 miles.
At an elevation of 9,850 feet, Brian Head is the highest municipality in Utah, with a year-round population of about 100. Winter skiers like Brian Head for its abundant snow, challenging terrain, and good accommodations. Summer visitors come to enjoy the high country and to plunge down the slopes on mountain bikes. The beautiful colors of Cedar Breaks National Monument lie just a few miles south. Panguitch Lake, to the east, receives high ratings for its excellent trout fishing.
Brian Head Peak
You can drive all the way to Brian Head’s 11,307-foot summit by car when the road is dry, usually July–October. Panoramas from the top take in much of southwestern Utah and beyond into Nevada and Arizona. Sheep graze the grassy slopes below. From Brian Head, follow the highway about two miles south, then turn left (northeast) three miles on a gravel road to the summit. The stone shelter here was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s.
Brian Head Resort
Brian Head Resort (435/677-2035, www.brianhead.com, $45 adults full day, $52 holiday, $32 children 12 and under and seniors full day, $37 holiday) comes alive during the skiing season, late November–late April. While it’s not Utah’s most exciting ski area, it’s a good place to bring a family, and new lifts and a skier bridge make it easy to get between the two mountains comprising the main ski areas: Navajo Peak, good for beginners and families, and Giant Steps, with more advanced runs.
Lifts carry skiers up to elevations of 10,920 feet; the resort has 63 runs and 600 skiable acres, with a vertical drop of 1,320 feet from the lift and 1,707 feet from the top of Brian Head peak. Forty percent of the terrain is rated beginner, 40 percent intermediate, and 20 percent advanced. The resort also features three terrain parks for all abilities, and a tubing area.
Brian Head’s second season is during the summer and fall, roughly June–October, when the area comes alive with mountain bikers taking advantage of great terrain and discounted accommodations. Brian Head Resort opens itself to bikers as a mountain-bike park, complete with chairlift ($20) and trailhead shuttle services, bike wash, rentals, and repair services. They supply free maps (preview the routes and print maps from www.brianhead.com).
Thrifty bikers can come away with some really good deals by shopping area hotels for mountain-bike lodging packages, which combine a few days of lodging with lift tickets, shuttle service, and sometimes even food and bike rentals. Bike-oriented summertime events in Brian Head include a late-July bike festival and mountain-bike races in August, September, and March. Mountain-bike rentals are available from Brian Head Resort (435/677-3101).
Panguitch Lake
This 1,250-acre reservoir sits in a volcanic basin surrounded by forests and barren lava flows. The cool waters have a reputation for outstanding trout fishing, especially for rainbow. Resorts line the lakeshore; many are venerable older fishing lodges with basic lodging in free-standing cabins; a couple are more upscale. Panguitch Lake is increasingly popular as a site for resort homes, as a glance at the dirt-moving equipment and piles of building supplies makes apparent.
Panguitch Lake lies along Hwy. 143 about 16 miles southwest of Panguitch and 14 miles northeast of Cedar Breaks National Monument. The lake has public boat ramps on the south and north shores.
Mammoth Springs
Moss and luxuriant streamside vegetation surround the crystal-clear spring waters at this beautiful spot. Mammoth Springs is about 5.5 miles south of Panguitch Lake. The last two miles are on gravel Forest Route 068. See the Dixie National Forest map (available at the Pine Valley and Cedar City Ranger District offices). A footbridge leads across the stream to the springs.
Mammoth Cave
Step a few feet underground to explore the inside of a lava flow. When this mass of lava began to cool, the molten interior burst through the surface and drained out through a network of tunnels. A cave-in revealed this section of tunnel, which has two levels. One of them you can follow through to another opening. The lower tunnel (with the large entrance) goes back about a quarter mile. To explore beyond that or to check out other sections, you’ll have to stoop or crawl.
Bring at least two reliable, powerful flashlights; the caves are very dark. Mammoth Cave is about 14 miles south of Panguitch Lake. Roads also lead in from Duck Creek on Hwy. 14 and Hatch on U.S. 89. You’ll need a good map to navigate the back roads, though there are some signs for Mammoth Cave.
© W.C. McRae and Judy Jewell from Moon Utah, 8th Edition
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