There aren’t a lot of non-chain places to stay out here, unless you’re camping or you have your own rig. Willcox has a few interstate chains that are easy to find, and there are a few bed-and-breakfasts tucked away in the mountains.

The bucolic George Walker House (2225 W. George Walker Lane, Portal, 520/558-2287, www.thegeorgewalkerhouse.com) in Portal, a small historic settlement in the Chiricahuas, offers wood stoves, wireless Internet, kitchens, and even a stocked fridge. The small inn is open to only one party at a time ($75–189 depending on how many people, up to seven) and is popular with bird-watchers and hikers. They recommend calling at least three months in advance for a reservation.

The only town of any size in the area is Willcox, and the fare there is rather bleak. There are a few chains, but it’s best to come prepared with your own food to take along in the car. The Plaza Restaurant (1190 W. Rex Allen Dr., Willcox, 520/384-3819) serves pretty good family-style American food and other dishes, and Salsa Fiesta (1201 W. Rex Allen Dr., Willcox, 520/384-4233) has decent Mexican food.