Tennessee’s gay, lesbian, bisexual, and transgender people have a mixed bag. On one hand, this is the Bible belt, a state where not long ago a bill was introduced that would have banned teachers from even saying the word “gay” in the classroom. On the other hand, there has been no better time to be gay in Tennessee. More and more social, civic, and political organizations are waking up to the gay community, and there are vibrant gay scenes in many Tennessee cities.

For gay travelers, this means that the experience on the road can vary tremendously. You may not be able to expect a warm welcome at the mom-and-pop diner out in the country, but you can find good gay nightlife and gay-friendly lodging in many cities.

The decision about how out to be on the road is entirely up to you, but be prepared for some harassment if you are open everywhere you go. The farther off the beaten track you travel, the less likely it is that the people you encounter have had many opportunities to get to know openly gay people. Some may be downright mean, but others have such stunted gaydar they probably won’t even notice.

Several specific guidebooks and websites give helpful listings of gay-friendly hotels, restaurants, and bars. The Damron guides (www.damron.com) offer Tennessee listings; the International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA, www.iglta.org) is a trade organization with listings of gay-friendly hotels, tour operators, and much more. San Francisco–based Now, Voyager (www.nowvoyager.com) is a gay-owned and -operated travel agency that specializes in gay tours, vacation packages, and cruises.

You should also check out local gay and lesbian organizations and newspapers.