Hot Springs
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Outside of the town of Jemez Springs, there are several other places you can take a dip. Five miles north, where the red rocks of the canyon have given way to steely-gray stone and Battleship Rock looms above the road, is the trail to McCauley Springs. These require a two-mile hike along East Fork Trail but are an excellent motivator for a not-too-strenuous climb. The day-use parking area (no fee) is just north of the turn for Battleship Rock Picnic Area; follow signs from here for trail no. 137. Follow the trail until it meets a small stream flowing down from your left (north) and then walk up the creek about a quarter mile to the spring, which has been diverted so it flows into a series of pools of ever-cooler temperatures (only 85°F at most points). Because the trail runs along the streambed, though, it’s usually impassable in the high-flow winter and spring.
The most accessible pools are Spence Springs, about 1.6 miles north of the parking area for the McCauley Springs Trail. A sign marks a parking area on the east side of the road, and the trail to the springs starts immediately south of the dirt pullout. A short hike (0.4 mile) leads down to the river and then up the steep hillside to two sets of 100°F pools. The place is well known, and although there are signs insisting on clothing, don’t be surprised if you encounter some people bathing nude.
San Antonio Springs require the most effort to reach, but they’re a good reward for the trek, five miles up Forest Road 376 (closed to motor vehicles). To reach the road, first turn off Highway 4 at La Cueva Lodge, continuing on Highway 126 for about 3.5 miles and parking at the gate blocking the forest road. From there, it’s a straight shot until a smaller road near a cabin leads downhill to the right; cross the creek and head straight uphill, about a quarter mile, to the pools, which enjoy great views of the valley.
© Zora O'Neill from Moon Santa Fe, Taos & Albuquerque, 2nd edition
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