Not far from the plaza, Duran Central Pharmacy (1815 Central Ave. NW, 505/247-4141, 9 a.m.–6:30 p.m. Mon.–Fri., 9 a.m.–2 p.m. Sat., $6) is an old-fashioned lunch counter hidden behind the magazine rack in this big fluorescent-lit drugstore. Regulars pack this place at lunch for all the New Mexican staples: huevos rancheros, green-chile stew, and big enchilada plates. Cash only.

Hybrid New Mexican cuisine, the blend of indigenous ingredients such as pinto beans into Mexican dishes such as enchiladas, is everywhere; Pueblo Harvest Café (2401 12th St. NW, 505/843-7270, 8 a.m.–3 p.m. Mon.–Fri., 8 a.m.–5 p.m. Sat. and Sun., $8), at the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, is one of the few places you can get “pure” American Indian food. Along with the usual enchiladas, expect earthy flavors, such as strong lamb and rich hominy, as well as frybread, the deep-fried delight that transcends all cultures. Breakfast is also good, with blue-corn pancakes and apple-raisin “Indian toast.”