Side roads off Highway 200 provide exotic, close-up glimpses of Nayarit’s tangled, tropical woodland, but rarely will they lead to such a delightful surprise as the green-tufted golden crescent of Playa Chacala and its diminutive neighbor, Playa Chacalilla.

Nineteen miles (31 km) north of Rincón de Guayabitos, follow the six-mile newly paved road to the great old palm grove at Chacala. Beyond the line of rustic palapa seafood restaurants lies a heavenly curve of sand, enfolded on both sides by palm-tipped headlands.

Supplied by the beachside restaurants (especially recommended: Restaurant Las Brisas, for good breaded shrimp; Restaurant El Amigo, for special El Tlaxtihuille—shrimp broth soup; and Restaurant Acela) and the stores in the village, Playa Chacala is ideal for tent or self-contained RV camping. Now that the road is paved, motor homes and trailers should be able to get there routinely.

A mile farther north, past Chacala village on the headland, the road ends at Playa Chacalilla, Playa Chacala’s miniature twin. (The status of public access to Playa Chacalilla was in doubt at this writing because of condo construction on the site.)