For basic staples and snacks, check out the fruit stands, groceries (such as Abarrotes Flavia, tel. 323/285-1214, 6 a.m.–9 p.m. daily), fondas, and jugerías in and around the Central Market (6 a.m.–2 p.m. daily), which, incidentally, is the coolest non-air-conditioned daytime spot in town. For example, refresh yourself at Jugos Mimi juice stand. During the summer look for the exotic Asian jackfruit relative yaca: green, round, and as large as a football. Enjoy a licuado whipped from its deliciously mild pulp.

Late afternoons and evenings, many semipermanent street-side stands around the plaza, such as the Taquería Las Cuatas, at the northwest corner, by the city hall, offer tasty antojitos and drinks.

For sit-down snacks every day until midnight, drop in to the Lonchería Ledmar (facing the plaza near the Canalizo–Juárez corner) for a hot torta, hamburger, quesadilla, tostada, or fresh-squeezed jugo (juice). For a change of venue, you can enjoy about the same at the Terraza café on the opposite side of the plaza.

Get your fresh cupcakes, cookies, and crispy bolillos at the panadería (bakery) (at Comonfort and Cuauhtémoc, closed Sun.), around the uptown corner from Hotel Posada del Rey. You can get similar (but not quite so fresh) goodies at the small bakery outlet across from the plaza (corner of Juárez and Canalizo).