Bars and Lounges

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Romantics might enjoy whiling away some time at the Oceano Bar (corner of Galeana, upstairs, overlooking the Malecón), once the bar of the long-gone Oceano Hotel, Puerto Vallarta’s first deluxe hostelry. Enjoy the ocean view and even maybe a palm-silhouetted sunset and dream about those days long ago when lovers Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor enjoyed the same view when they stayed together in the hotel.

Farther north another block, traditionalists often enjoy Restaurant Las Palomas (corner of Aldama, tel. 322/222-3675), which features live marimba music 7–10 p.m. and a mariachi guitar trio after that.

The jungle never sleeps at Mogambo (Paseo Díaz Ordaz 644, Malecón, tel. 322/222-3476, 5:30 p.m.–3 a.m. daily), where animal prints and spears decorate the walls and cover the furniture. The jukebox primarily turns out rock and pop rock and attracts the late crowds. Stop in early for a drink with friends, and you’ll have the place to yourselves. The casual atmosphere and open windows that face the sea and the Malecón make for a nice impromptu stop when strolling the busy main street. A half block farther north, restaurant La Dolce Vita (corner of Domínguez, tel. 322/222-3852, 10 a.m.–midnight daily in season) entertains dinner customers with live Latin and Cuban music.

Those who desire a more refined, romantic ambience go to Restaurant Café des Artistes (tel. 322/222-3228) and take a table for dinner or a seat at the bar, where they enjoy soothing neoclassical flute–accompanied piano melodies nightly during high season; Friday and Saturday during low season. Find it by walking three blocks along Leona Vicario inland from the Malecón.

Built high into the night sky of downtown Puerto Vallarta, the ultra-chic Azul 96 (Morelos 696, Centro, tel. 322/222-1022, 6 p.m.–4 a.m. daily) rivals bars in New York and Mexico City. This third-floor beach club comes complete with sand, a view of the sea, and a retractable roof for stargazing. Nosh on sushi and other nibbles while choosing from the extensive cocktail and wine list with martini specials and swaying to the tune of international DJs. Dress trendy and join the scene of restless moneyed youth of urban Mexico.

For that romantic tête-à-tête, there’s simply no place like Costantini Wine Bar (Guadalupe Sánchez 740, Centro, tel. 322/222-3228, www.cafedesartistes.com, 6 p.m.–1 a.m. daily): Its dark red interior with high-backed banquettes holds many hidden corners. Local pianist Enrique provides live piano music, and on weekends Don and Rhonda perform their review, full of singable melodies from the ’70s. Free wine tastings are offered on Thursday nights (6–7 p.m.), giving you the chance to discover new favorites from the unmatched wine list, accompanied by a full selection of botanas (snacks). This is also a downtown hotspot for business cocktails and can be a fun gathering place for friends or co-workers.

Founded by one of the band members of the international group Maná, De Santos (Morelos 771, Centro, tel. 322/223-3052, www.desantos.com.mx, 10 p.m.–6 a.m. Wed.–Sat.) tends to draw names—both recognized and not—from Mexico and abroad. Although it’s also known as a restaurant, De Santos is one of the best nightspots in town. Relax with a cocktail at one of the prime tables or the long-mirrored bar on the first floor, or climb the stairs to the upper terrace, where you can sip your martini on a gauze-curtained bed under the stars and the house music keeps things cool. Modern, trendy, and the place to be seen, De Santos also draws the late-night dance crowds with the hottest DJs.

Located just a block off the Malecón on Morelos, La Cantina (Morelos 709, Centro, tel. 322/222-1629, www.etcbeach.com, 11:59 a.m.–2 a.m. Sun.–Tues., 11:59 a.m.–4 a.m. Wed.–Sat.) is a popular smoky hangout for students who need a break between classes or finals. La Cantina is genuine and doesn’t give a thought to tourists, since not many of them find their way here. The dark interior feels homey, and the canned music, which ranges from banda to mariachi to ballads, adds to the very Mexican ambience, while the high ceilings lend a ’40s-hacienda atmosphere. This place is best for talking with groups of friends rather than dancing or clubbing.

The international Nikki Beach (Hotel Westin Regina at Paseo de la Marina Sur 205, Marina Vallarta, tel. 322/226-1150, www.nikkibeach.com/pv, 10 a.m.–4 a.m. daily) lost no time in getting established in sophisticated Marina Vallarta, where the beachfront location offers everything not only to the nighttime reveler but also the daytime sun worshipper. Weekly fashion events, daily sunset parties, regular VIP invitations, and Sunday brunch make Nikki Beach the happening place all day, but it’s after the sun goes down that it really comes alive. While drinks are expensive, the crowd is sure to be beautiful, and the service is top-notch. There’s also a limited late-hour menu.

In classy Mexican style, Tequilas de Noche (Galeana 104–101, Malecón, tel. 322/222-2733, 6 p.m.—11 p.m. daily) offers an evening of traditional live mariachi from one of the best local groups. Two soloists, one male, one female, will twist your heartstrings with their renditions of classics olden and golden. Sipping a margarita made with the best tequila while watching the sun slip below the horizon from the second-floor balconies will make all seem right with the world. This is where to go when you want to feel like you’re in Mexico without the tourist trappings. Even though tourists might be sitting at the next table, you can be sure locals visit this favorite.

Facing onto the Malecón from an open second-floor balcony, the smashing new Ztai (Morelos 737, Centro, tel. 322/222-0306, www.ztai.com, 6 p.m.–5 a.m. daily) throbs with a beat of its own, fueled by heavy rock from a good sound system. Drinks are made with flash and presented with flourish. When the decibels are high, the crowd stays young, but on gentler nights earlier in the week, even 30-somethings will trip up those stairs for the seashore view. It’s a pleasant place to have a cocktail either before dinner or after when you don’t have dancing in mind.

The increasingly popular small entertainment district, spread along I. Vallarta, near the corner of L. Cárdenas, has acquired a number of lively spots, among them the popular Mariachis Locos bar/restaurant (tel. 322/223-2205). Inside, a mostly local straight clientele enjoys a lively nonstop mariachi show nightly from about 11 p.m. to the wee hours.

For good food with your entertainment, continue south on I. Vallarta a block, to the corner of Vallarta and Carranza and the longtime favorite Restaurant El Torito (tel. 322/222-3784, 10 p.m.–5 a.m. nightly); reasonably priced for barbequed ribs are their specialty, with DJ music to boot.

A number of popular bars and night spots entertain folks along Avenida Olas Altas. For example, many folks’ nights wouldn’t be complete without stopping in at the Ándale Mexican pub (Olas Altas 425, tel. 322/222-1054, open until around 2 a.m.), whose atmosphere is so amicable and lively that few even bother to watch the nonstop TV. If the night is still young, continue a block to the beachfront foot of Francisca Rodríguez and restaurant Cuates and Cuetes for innovative live Latin jazz, beginning around 7:30 nightly.

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