Near the north end of the downtown Malecón, where the good beach resumes at Playa Camarones, so do the beachfront hotels. They continue, dotting the tranquil, golden strands of Playa las Glorias, Playa los Tules, and Playa de Oro. On these beaches are the plush hotels (actually self-contained resorts) from which you must have wheels to escape to the shopping, restaurants, and the piquant sights and sounds of old Puerto Vallarta.

Puerto Vallarta’s plush hostelries vary widely, and higher tariffs do not guarantee quality. Nevertheless, some of Pacific Mexico’s best-buy luxury gems glitter among the 20-odd hotels lining Puerto Vallarta’s north-end Zona Hotelera beaches. The prices listed are “rack rates“—the highest prices paid by walk-in customers. Much cheaper—with as much as a 50 percent discount—airfare-lodging packages are often available, especially during low seasons (Jan., May and June, and Sept.–Nov.). Get yourself a good buy by shopping around among hotels, the Internet, and travel agents several weeks before departure.