It’s a long walk or a five-minute mototaxi ride through the fields to Recreo Campestre Los Pacaes (Prolongación Bolívar, tel. 043/71-1505, US$3–7), the place most recommended by locals. Musicians play while guests lunch under a flower-covered trellis. Local specialties include chicharrón de pato (deep-fried duck), pepián de pavo (rice and turkey casserole), and cuy (guinea pig).

Camas’s best in-town option is Restaurant Tío Sam (Huarmey 138, US$3–4), with excellent creole food, including a delectable sopa criolla.

In Tortugas, the best food is at El Farol (tel. 043/71-1064, US$5–9), where chefs prepare fresh lenguado (sole) with a mouthwatering garlic/tomato sauce. Huber, the manager, can prepare you a stiff Cuba libre as you admire the extraordinary views.

For less expensive food, there are several good restaurants near the road entrance to Tortuga, the best of which is 30-year-old Restaurant Costa Azul (corner of road entrance to Tortuga, US$3–6).