With an early start from Lima, it should be possible to visit Caral and continue northward to Casma or even Trujillo. If you overnight in the area, however, Huacho is preferable to Supe (the town closest to Caral). Regardless, we recommend giving your hotel a good once over before accepting the room, as some have reputations for being hour hotels.

Once in Huacho, head 30 minutes west to the beach for Fundo Centinela (tel. 01/994-5813, US$55 s, US$65 d), a quaint farm nestled among sugarcane fields within walking distance of Playa Paraíso, one of the 10 most beautiful beaches in Peru (according to the Guia Inca de Playas). The owners, Americo and Ursula Debernardi, serve heaping plates of delicious Italian food.

In Supe, a safe though somewhat noisy option is Hostel Las Palmeras (Panamericana North Km 585, tel. 01/236-4037, US$8 s, US$12 d), on the highway one kilometer north of town on the left side. Major bus companies stop here when asked. Get coffee and breakfast at Doña Lobatón’s on the main square. Right around the corner, Charito serves traditional ceviche de pato, a stew of duck, potatoes, and onions.

There is a wider selection of hotels and restaurants in Barranca, five kilometers north along the Panamericana from Supe but still within taxi distance of Caral. Hostel Emilio (Gálvez 651, tel. 01/235-5224, US$9 s, US$15 d) offers huge, comfortable rooms with TVs on the main drag. The rooms in the back are quieter, and whirlpool tubs are available for about twice the price.

Slightly fancier, but considerably more expensive, is Hotel El Chavín (Gálvez 222, tel. 01/235-2358, US$20 s, US$25 d), which has rooms with cable TV and a pool. Recommended restaurants include Restaurant Gitana (near the intersection of Bolognesi and the Panamericana, US$4–6), known for its ceviche mixto.

Also cheap and clean are Los Tronkitos (Galvéz 787, US$3–5) and El Alaska (Galvéz 564), which serves espresso and scrumptious desserts until midnight.