Peruvian and International

For an excellent meal, head down to the train station to the restaurant El Albergue (Ferrocarril s/n, tel. 084/20-4077, reservations [at] elalbergue [dot] com, 5 a.m.–9:30 p.m. daily, US$6–10). Using organic vegetables from the Sacred Valley, the menu is inventive and has great vegetarian options. Try the alpaca with huacatay mash or the lamb tenderloin with chimichurri and quinoa risotto. Pasta lovers can order a plate of homemade fettuccini with their favorite sauce. Reservations are recommended.

The best coffee in Ollantaytambo is also found at the train station, at the El Albergue’s Café Mayu (Ferrocarril s/n, tel. 084/20-4014, 5 a.m.–9:30 p.m. daily, US$2–15). Order your favorite coffee, be it an espresso, latte, or cappuccino, and drink it to wash down a delicious chocolate chip cookie or brownie. Coffees are also available in the hotel’s restaurant.

Kusicoyllor Café-Bar (Calle Convención across from the temple, tel. 084/20-4114, 8 a.m.–10 p.m. daily, US$5–8), located directly in front of the ruins, serves a variety of traditional dishes with a modern flair, as well as croissants, espresso, and homemade ice cream.

Pachamama Grill (Convención s/n, 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m. daily, US$7–10) has amazing trout, pizza, and lomo saltado. Local NGO Awamaki can even arrange cooking classes with Zenayda, the charismatic and accomplished chef at Pachamama Grill!

Another good bet is the Panaka Grill Restaurant (Plaza de Armas s/n, 7 a.m.–10 p.m. daily, US$7–10), whose second floor tables look down on the plaza, and whose clean kitchen sends out flavorful plates of grilled alpaca, lomo saltado, and pizza.

A favorite in town is Puka Rumi (Ventiderio s/n, tel. 084/20-4091, 7:30 a.m.–8:30 p.m. daily, US$4–10). The Chilean owner has brought over the traditions from his home country and offers everything from enormous and delicious sandwiches to local dishes including the town’s best lomo saltado. The menu is extremely varied and has options for all budgets. For dessert, try the brownies.

Vegetarian

Heart’s Café (Plaza de Armas s/n, tel. 084/20-4078, www.heartscafe.org, 7 a.m.–9 p.m. daily, US$5–18) was founded by Sonia Newhouse and is about the only place in Ollantaytambo that has a book exchange. This place serves home-cooked meals using mainly organic ingredients and has everything from soups, salads, and sandwiches to main dishes and even afternoon tea with scones. Profits go to Sonia Newhouse’s NGO, Living Heart.

Markets

The best minimarket for snacks or a picnic is Inka Misana on the Plaza de Armas. But head to the local market for fresh fruit and produce.

© Ross Wehner and Renée del Gaudio from Moon Peru, 3rd Edition