The best choice in Chivay for those on a budget is the friendly La Casa de Lucila (Grau 131, tel. 054/53-1109, www.vitatours.com.pe, US$23 s, US$29 d with breakfast). The comfortable, homelike hotel is very clean with carpeted rooms.

Another option, near the market, is Colca Wasi Kolping (Siglo XX s/n, tel. 054/53-1076, www.hoteleskolping.net, US$26 s, US$35 d with breakfast). The seven bungalows of this small hotel open on to the canyon and are perfect for those who want to be near the town but close to nature.

The Colca Inn (Salaverry 307, tel. 054/53-1111, www.hotelcolcainn.com, US$23 s, US$36 d with breakfast) is a reliable midrange choice with large rooms and good beds. The bathrooms and carpet are in need of an update, but the downstairs bar has a pool table.

Casa Andina (Huayna Cápac s/n, tel. 054/53-1020, www.casa-andina.com, US$86 s or d with breakfast), part of a well-run national chain, is a charming complex of rooms and 30-odd bungalows connected by stone-lined walkways. The rooms are tastefully decorated, with modern bathrooms, beds with down comforters, and heaters. The large dining room serves buffet dinners with a nightly folkloric show.

A more peaceful option is Pozo del Cielo (tel. 054/53-1041, www.pozodelcielo.com.pe, US$47 s, US$58 d with breakfast). The hotel is right across the Inca bridge from Chivay, perched up on a bluff that is an easy walk to the nearby Inca ruins. The lodge is laid out like a small stone-and-adobe village, with rooms of whitewashed walls, exposed beams, and excellent canyon views. The cozy dining room serves typical Andean food.