Café Renato (Huayna Cápac 285, Plaza de Armas, tel. 043/50-4279, 7 a.m.–10 p.m.) makes its own yogurt, cheese, and manjar, which it serves up in a small corridor of a patio. The café can also arrange horseback riding trips.

Next door to the ruins, Buongiorno (17 de Enero 520, tel. 043/45-4112, 7 a.m.–8 p.m. daily, US$2–5) has a flavorful and interesting menu, which features local foods like trout, guinea pig, and pachamanca. Service can be slow.

At lunchtime, Restaurant Chavín (17 de enero 439, tel. 043/45-4051, 7 a.m.–10 p.m. daily) is full of tour groups filling up on trout, chicken, and rabbit. Word has it that the restaurant serves a mean pastel de manzanas (apple pie).