Chavín de Huántar (tel. 043/42-4042, 8 a.m.–5 p.m. daily, US$3.50), four hours east of Huaraz, was the capital of the Chavín culture, which spread across Peru’s northern highlands from 2,000–200 B.C. The site includes a sunken plaza ringed with stylized carvings of pumas and priests holding the hallucinogenic San Pedro cactus. A broad stairway leads to a U-shaped stone temple, called the Castillo, which rises 13 meters off the ground in three levels of stone.

This site was visited by Italian explorer Antonio Raymondi in the 19th century and later excavated in the early 20th century by Julio Tello. Both men brought back elaborately carved pillars, which are now on display in Lima’s museums.

Tello developed an elaborate theory that Chavín de Huántar was the launching pad for all of Peru’s advanced cultures. Recent excavations have revealed that the city was preceded by Caral and other important centers on the coast, but Chavín’s importance is still irrefutable.

During its peak from 400–200 B.C., the Chavín culture spread across Peru as far as Ayacucho in the south and Cajamarca in the north. Its exotic deities, which included the puma and a mythical deity with a staff in its hand, became central icons throughout Peru’s ancient art and iconography.

The highlight of Chavín de Huántar is the series of underground chambers beneath the main temple. Illuminated by electric light, three of these passages converge underground at an extraordinary stone carving, known as the Lanzón.

This granite pillar is carved with a frightening mythical being, which has thick, snarling lips and a pair of menacing, upward-arching canines. Heavy earrings hang from the ears and snakes appear to grow from the head. The notched top of the pillar extends upward into an upper gallery, where priests may once have performed rituals.

Its underground architecture gives Chavín de Huántar an entirely different feel than the other cultural ruins of northern Peru. The sensation is part-playful and part-terrifying. As you wind your way through impressive, ventilated tunnels that once led to dressing and ceremonial rooms, you can’t help imagine the terrible existence of the prisoners who were also kept in the tight underground passageways.

There is an excellent weavers co-op in Chavín (across from the Centro de Salud, 2–6:30 p.m. daily). You have to knock to be let in, but the Centro Artensal’s selection of sweaters, tablecloths, and hand-knit shawls are worth a heavy pounding. Made by local women, who study weaving at the center, the textiles are brightly colored and high quality. If you ask, you can usually see the women at work.

Getting There

Many of Huaraz’s agencies offer a day tour to Chavín de Huántar, which leaves Huaraz at 9:30 a.m. and returns about 10 hours later. Although this is an efficient way to see the ruins, with a tour group, you are unlikely to perceive the true magnitude of the sight, because all agencies hit the ruins at the same hour (right after lunch). There’s a bit of herding as people try to move in and out of tight spaces.

It is advisable to go on your own, Chavín Express (Mariscal Cáceres 338, tel. 043/42-4652, 5 a.m.–10 p.m.) sends three buses per day, spend the night in Chavín, and head to the ruins early. At the entrance, you can contract a Spanish-speaking guide (US$8).