One of the coolest bars in Huaraz is Vagamundo Travelbar & Maps (Julián de Morales 753, tel. 043/50-9063, 5 p.m.–close daily high season, 8 p.m.–close daily low season, US$5), with acid jazz, funk, and Latin music. An international crowd fills the bar’s couches and circles the almost nightly bonfire.

A popular backpacker spot is X-Treme Bar (Luzuriaga and Gabino Uribe, tel. 043/42-3150, 7 p.m.–late), which is a relaxed place to hang out, with couches, dartboards, and Latin Rock.

The hot spot for dancing is the El Tambo (José de la Mar 776, tel. 043/42-3417, 8 p.m.–dawn, cover US$3), with Top 40 pop, salsa, and techno spun by a DJ. It also has rooms for live music and mingling over cocktails.

Several other nightlife options are nearby, including the popular Makondos (José de la Mar 812, 9 p.m. daily, cover varies), which blasts disco and Latin pop until the wee hours of the morning.

For a mellow beer, try Los 13 Buhos (José de la Mar 812, 7 p.m.–close daily, US$3). This small bar is located above Makondos and makes a good early-evening stop, before heading to the dance floor.

For an alternative evening, head to Cine-Café Huaraz Stayricon (Luzuriaga 1036, tel. 043/955-7343, www.huarazsatyricon.tripod.com, US$2). Nightly, the theater shows international films. And instead of popcorn, its café menu offers beer, falafel sandwiches, and chocolate chip cookies. Showtimes change weekly, and most hotels have schedules.

Huaraz’s biggest celebration is Semana Santa, the week before Easter, when Huaraz natives and their friends return home from Lima. There are important religious processions on Good Friday and Easter Sunday, along with a lot of partying and a carnival like spirit (think water balloons).

During the Fiesta de Mayo (May 2–9), there are processions and dance festivals for Huaraz’s earthquake-controlling patron saint, El Señor de la Soledad (Our Lord of Solitude).