Explore Peru
Getting Off the Gringo Trail
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This odyssey through Peru’s northern highlands and Amazon is for those who want to get off the Gringo Trail and experience an awesome cross-section of Peru’s geography.
If you have a few extra days, consider starting in either Trujillo or Chiclayo. These cities are close to an array of pre-Inca ruins and their corresponding museums. The most ambitious idea is to fly to Chiclayo first to visit Museo Tumbas Reales and Túcuume. Then take a three-hour bus ride to visit Trujillo, along with the ruins of Huaca de la Luna and Chan Chan. From there you would head to Cajamarca and follow the trip described here.
Day 1
Arrive in Lima, fly to Cajamarca, where Francisco Pizarro captured Inca emperor Atahualpa and ransomed him for a room of gold. Besides Atahualpa’s chamber (called the Cuarto de Rescate), Cajamarca offers baroque churches, the carved aqueducts at Cumbemayo, and a stunning pastoral setting.
Day 2
After a morning visit to Cumbemayo, begin the rough overland journey to the cloud forest of the Chachapoya. The first leg of the trip involves an afternoon bus from Cajamarca to the charming country town of CelendÃn (four hours). There you will spend the night before heading to Leymebamba in the morning.
Day 3
Bus ride to Leymebamba. This is a spectacular, eight-hour journey down and up the Marañón Canyon, which is deeper than Arizona’s Grand Canyon and ranges from high-altitude grasslands to the subtropical valley floor. Overnight in a hotel near Leymebamba’s quiet central plaza.
Day 4
Explore Leymebamba with a visit to the Museo Leymebamba and a hike to the lost city of La Congona. That afternoon, take a colectivo down the Utcubamba Valley to Chillo or Tingo (1.5 hours). Plan on a two-night stay at one of the charming country lodges at the foot of Kuélap.
Day 5
Hike to the Chachapoya citadel of Kuélap.
Day 6
Take a colectivo to Pedro Ruiz (one hour) to get back on paved highway, and hop on a bus for Tarapoto (eight hours).
Day 7
Relax in Tarapoto by visiting Laguna Sauce or hiking to the local waterfalls. Spend another night in Tarapoto.
Day 8
The most adventurous part of this trip begins with an early-morning colectivo over the muddy, potholed road to Yurimaguas (6–8 hours). That afternoon, board a cargo boat down the RÃo Huallaga for a 36-hour ride bound for Iquitos.
Day 9
Rest up on the boat by swinging on a hammock, eating bananas, and watching the Amazon float by.
Day 10
Disembark in Iquitos in the morning or beforehand for a visit to the Amazon lodge of your choice. Amazon lodges such as Tahuayo can pick you up in Nauta, a small river town before Iquitos.
Days 11–12
Motor out to a lodge on a tributary of the Amazon River. You’ll rise early both days to catch sight of Hoatzins and river otters at their early morning feeding. Afternoons you’ll wander the terra firma in search of tiny frog or fish for piraña.
Day 13
Return to Iquitos for celebration dinner—or keep floating on into Brazil!
Day 14
Fly to Lima and return home.
© Ross Wehner and Renée del Gaudio from Moon Peru, 2nd Edition
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