Ever since a landslide destroyed the train line past Machu Picchu to Quillabamba, Aguas Calientes is literally the end of the line for the Cusco–Machu Picchu train.

Once a ramshackle town, Aguas Calientes’s recent structural improvements have brought paved roads, a colorful crafts market, and a growth in business. New restaurants and hotels are wedging their way into what little available valley space there is.

Since the town’s economy lives entirely on tourism, you shouldn’t expect a great Peruvian cultural experience, but staying overnight in Aguas Calientes will allow you to give Machu Picchu and the surrounding area the time it takes to truly absorb its magnitude. More than one night, however, isn’t necessary.

The town spreads uphill from the tracks, past a square and up the main drag of Pachacútec alongside the Río Aguas Calientes. On the other side of the river is the Orquideas neighborhood with a few peaceful, good lodging options.

At the top of Pachacútec are the town’s thermal baths (US$5, with towels and even bathing suits for rent). The baths are cleanest in the morning and are usually quite grimy by evening. On a dirt trail uphill past the baths are a few spectacular waterfalls for bathing. This path leads uphill for several hours to a string of remote waterfalls.

Follow the road toward Machu Picchu, and just before the uphill schlep to the ruins, you’ll find the new Museo del Sitio Machu Picchu (highway to Machu Picchu at Puente Ruinas, 9 a.m.–4:30p.m. daily, US$6.50). The English-Spanish signs in this small, modern museum lead you geographically, culturally, and historically through Machu Picchu. Dioramas explain a typical Incan day in Machu Picchu, and enlarged photos explain the site’s investigation. There is also an attached botanical garden.

Getting There

Buses to Machu Picchu leave every 5–15 minutes from just below the town’s second bridge. Consettur Machupicchu (Hermanos Hayar s/n, tel. 084/21-1134) sells the tickets, US$6 one-way and US$12 round-trip, with the first bus leaving at 5 a.m. and the last at 10 p.m.