Sights

There are eight colonial churches in tiny Huancavelica. The Plaza de Armas, bordered by the cathedral, town hall, and some colonial homes, features a granite fountain installed in the mid-19th century. The cathedral itself has a good collection of colonial paintings and a magnificent baroque altar and pulpit.

The churches of San Sebastían (1662) and San Francisco (1774), in Plaza Bolognesi, are worth seeing for their collections of baroque art. The best time to find these churches open is during early-morning mass or on Sundays, when there is an excellent market along Torre Tagle that draws villagers from all over the surrounding countryside.

The San Cristóbal Mineral Springs (5 a.m.–5 p.m. daily, US$0.50), 10 minutes northwest of the city, have a great reputation for curing skin diseases, although they are more on the lukewarm side than hot. Ask at hotels for directions.

There are also good walks in the surrounding area, including the area around the Santa Barbara mine, which closed in the early 19th century.

Accommodations

uancavelica]’s best hotel is Hotel Presidente (Plaza de Armas s/n, tel. 067/45-2760, hotel www.hoteles-del-centro.com, US$42 s, US$56 d with breakfast), in a historic building on the Plaza de Armas. Prices quoted are for the executive rooms, which have been recently updated and have lots of hot water and cable TV. The hotel also has one of the city’s better restaurants.

Cheaper options include Hotel Camacho (Carabaya 481, tel. 067/45-3298, US$9 s, US$16 d), the town’s best budget choice with clean rooms, decent mattresses, and lots of blankets. There is hot water in the morning only, and a few cheaper rooms with shared bathes.

Another budget option is right on the Plaza de Armas: Hotel Ascención (Manco Cápac 481, tel. 067/45-3103, US$11 s, US$18 d). Check on hot water before paying for the room.

Food

Good restaurants are hard to find in Huancavelica. The best is probably in the Hotel Presidente (Plaza de Armas, tel. 067/45-2760, 7 a.m.–3 p.m. and 6–10 p.m. daily, US$4–6), which serves up chifa, trout, and a few chicken and beef dishes.

The best regional food is served at Los Portales (Virrey Toledo 158) and Paquirri (Arequipa 137).

Getting to Huancavelica

Cargo trains travel daily between Huancavelica and Huancayo at 6:30 a.m. and sometimes at 12:30 p.m. as well. The five-hour ride is only US$4 and offers breathtaking views. Most locals travel the rough road to Huancayo via colectivos (US$6, 3.5 hours), which leave from the Plaza de Armas throughout the day. The best bus company for the route is Empresa Ticllas (US$4, 4.5 hours).

© Ross Wehner and Renée del Gaudio from Moon Peru, 3rd Edition