Pesé

The cutest of the towns is Pesé (pop. 2,547), 19 kilometers from the turnoff. It has a quaint little church surrounded by red-roofed buildings half-hidden behind flowering trees. Horse carts are still used to haul goods around here.

In the odd juxtaposition one sometimes sees in small Panamanian towns, across the street from the church is a Seco Herrerano factory. Seco is sugarcane liquor, and Panama’s national drink. There are no official tours of the factory, but curious visitors who show up on a normal workday, which also includes Saturday before noon, can probably convince someone to let them poke around.

Given this cozy combination of the sacred and profane, it’s only fitting that Pesé is noted for a live reenactment of the suffering and final days of Jesus Christ during Semana Santa (Holy Week), the week leading up to Easter. This may sound pretty somber, but in recent years the Catholic Church has chided the town for, essentially, having too much fun during what is supposed to be a religious observance.

Los Pozos and Las Minas

There’s really not much to see in Los Pozos (pop. 2,268), the next significant town. It’s 19 kilometers south of Pesé. Las Minas (pop. 2,209), 13 kilometers west of Los Pozos or 51 kilometers from the start of the loop, is kind of cute, though not as cute as Pesé.

At this point, the road has turned hillier and the surrounding countryside greener and more lush. The big party in Las Minas is on December 4, in honor of the village’s patron saint, Santa Barbara.

Ocú

Ocú (pop. 8,150), 21 kilometers farther north on a potholed road, is not quaint. The houses and church are made from cinderblocks, for instance. But the town works hard to preserve the old ways, and it’s often considered the folkloric center of Herrera province.

The town and its namesake district are known for producing lovely polleras (hand-embroidered dresses) that are quite unlike those made in Los Santos province. The area is also known for producing distinctive white hats with a black band that more closely resemble the famous “Panamas” made in Ecuador than do other traditional Panamanian hats.

A national folkloric festival, the Festival del Manito, is held here annually on the second weekend in August. A highlight of the festival is the chance to see a traditional country wedding, with the bride on horseback in a beautiful white pollera, her proud groom mounted behind her, protecting her from the sun with an umbrella.

The town’s other big multiday celebration is the Feria de San Sebastián, a country fair that takes place in the week leading up to and including January 20, the town’s patron saint day.

Back to Chitré

The fastest way back to Chitré is to finish the loop to Pesé, 30 kilometers away. From there it’s a 19-kilometer drive to the main road leading intoChitré. Getting back to Pesé from Ocú can be a bit tricky. Don’t be shy about asking for directions if you get lost; the people are friendly, and they know roads get confusing out here.

The road to Pesé starts past a supermarket to the east of downtown. The road was recently paved and should be in good shape. After 13 kilometers, make a right. This will lead south into Pesé. From there just continue east to Chitré.

Note: This also means that those wanting to go straight from Chitré to Ocú can take this more direct route rather than drive the whole loop. Those not already on the Azuero Peninsula can also drive directly to Ocú from the Interamericana. The turnoff is west of Divisa.

© William Friar from Moon Panama, 3rd Edition