Wheeler (pop. 393) is a little town astride the Nehalem River where most accommodations are low-cost efficiencies for visiting fisherfolk, but the 10 guest rooms of the Wheeler on the Bay Lodge and Marina (580 Marine Dr., 503/368-5858 or 800/469-3204, www.wheeleronthebay.com, $85–155), on U.S. 101 on the shore of Nehalem Bay, have more appeal.

Most guest rooms have at least partial bay views, and several have jetted tubs. There’s also a video store, kayak rentals, and on-site massage services, and they can help arrange fishing charters.

Guest rooms at The Old Wheeler Hotel (495 U.S. 101, 503/368-6000 or 877/653-4683, $100–235), a 1920s landmark across the road from the bay, may remind you of your great-aunt’s guest room. They’re old-fashioned in a very down-to-earth way. Although all guest rooms have private bathrooms, some bathrooms are down the hall from their rooms.

In a tiny cottage just off the main drag, the Rising Star Cafe (92 Rorvik St., 503/368-3990, 8 a.m.–3 p.m. Wed.–Thurs., 6–9 p.m. Fri., 9 a.m.–3 p.m. Sat.–Sun., about $12) is a sweet spot for a rather expansive (and spendy) breakfast or a simple pasta dinner. The food can be very good here (if the brandied bread pudding is on the menu, go for it), and the atmosphere is comfortable and friendly.